Real Big Kung Fu

The Black Douglas

[Redacted]

The Brotherhood

The Sandstoner

Barracuda

Mountain Boy

Saturday the 14th

Grey Matter

Stick It

Slim Shady

The Dopeman

Caligula

Die-Agonal

Black Juju

Hot Chocolate

Has Bro

Om Sweet Om

Lemongello

He Bro

Calligraphy

Frequency

I Feel So Funky

Baby Seal

Throw Down the Gauntlet

BlackzillaH

Bronzing

Darkstar

Can I Borrow Some Draws?

Beer Snake

Perfection Project

TechnoZen

Ebonics

Crack and Shatter

Beach Blanket Bingo

Bro Job

The Winsloner

French Kissing The Cobra

Kingsnake

Valley Girl

Vanilla Voodoo

Orangello

Anti-Venom

Credit Card

Bocephus

The Hanging Judge

Picture Me Rollin'

Sh'ash Nizhitl (The Bear that is Brown)

Pirates of the Carabiner

An excellent route up a rounded arete.  Start just left of arete and climb past bolts to a move up & right near a roof crack.  Some people skip the last bolt on the arete.

A few sketchy moves up & left to the 1st bolt, then up steep patina edges past 2 cruxes with a nice rest in between.  Towards the top the holds get bigger.

The leftmost of the three “Bro” routes. Thin, technical face climbing. 

Fun, less than vertical start to a rest below a bulge with a seam. Negotiate the challenging bulge and veer Lt, and then Rt on varnished face above. Finally, a steep and exciting fisnish up another seam takes you to the anchor. Stemming lt into corner is off.

From a sandy scoop delicately clip the first bolt before crimping and underclinging pockets.  Obtain a short rest by stemming in or near two scoops before a bout of patina pinching.  Run it out on easier, low-angle terrain before making a final move to the chains.

use the offwidth crack on the right to gain the first bolt and some good pockets. From here move up a bit to clip the second bolt and out left engage the low crux to the third. Very fun black petina crimp and edge climbing with another high crux. After the high crux the route eases off

From the anchor of Valley Girls, climb up and right to a hand crack in the obvious dihedral to the ledge. Take the right crack of the two cracks to another small ledge. If you have a #3 and #4 left, keep going. Otherwise stop your pitch here and anchor with 2 .75s and a nut; you'll then do a short second pitch.

Scramble up to a small ledge about 10' high, just above the point where one wades through the water when walking downstream from Shady Grove.  Climb up a left-facing corner (funky gear), then up & left to another, larger corner.  Ascend this to the chains.

Short and steep line on the right side of the wall above the "lunch rock". Very long moves.

Awesome clean crack in a corner that starts hands and gradually widens to fists (offwidth for small hands?)up high.  An excellent pitch!  Much of the climb is wide hands & cups for me, so those with small hands may find themselves doing lots of fist jams.

Follow thinning crack in corner to a bulgy crux up high, then up and right to chains.  The direct finish (up then right instead of right then up) is solid 10+ish.

A tricky but well protected beginning crux involving scoop stemming, pocket pulling, and crimp grabbing sequence gives way to a hard 5.11 sequence on the patinated face of the climb. Traverse left to the shared anchors with Sandstoner.

Obvious thin crossing crack/grooves.   My recollection is it was more about face climbing than fingers.  Climb it as a left to right system ? 

  Don't remember much.  I think it was a one pitch climb with some thin moves in an area lacking some pro ?  Bit of a challenging lead? 

  If someone has repeated this, fill in the details

A featured & varnished corner.  Follow the featured crack up the corner until it is possible to traverse left to Bro Job's anchors.  At the base is often a mini-swamp, so take care when pulling the rope.

Work up the nice corner past adequate but un-inspiring pro to the roof.  Jam over the roof and up a beautiful splitter crack to the anchor.

A decent route that climbs much better than it looks.  Traverse right & up to the 1st bolt, then interesting moves up past some nice rests.  Then up a steep bit to the chains.

Start up crack then up & right past bolts through overhang.

Absolutely great, fingery route right across from the descent. Cool crimps, pockets, sidepulls and slopers take you to the chains. Climbs featured stone to the left of the arête line Has Bro.

A significant variation featuring endurance crimping for four bolts in place of Caligula's redpoint boulder problem crux

Starts same as Crack and Shatter, but arcs left to the spectacular, wavy arete.  Progressively harder climbing to a huge crux dyno.

Long route with all kinds of strange moves.  Water/raft start.

A very tall pretty line with great features and fun movement. It is definitely worth doing once. The crux is a bouldery sequence getting past the first bulge but then the route mellows out significantly on black patina all the way to the top. The route would be great if it were more sustained and did not go over a huge bulge, creating rope drag, and obstructing the view of the belayer.  

  note: I would not recommend top roping this climb as the pendulum swing at the crux will cause the lip of the bulge to saw the rope

Gentle overhang to a leftward crux traverse at the very top.  Water/raft start.

A great climb up great rock.  Start right of the arete, just left of Hot Chocolate.  Climb up and left to arete, then up past many bolts to top.  Technically the crux is up high, but there are several cruxy sections throughout the climb.  This one is full-value!

A hard (for me) and sustained line with a few cruxy sections. Start in a grassy area just left of Ebonics. Climb face past 2 bolts to a short blank section below a small roof. Climb up to the roof (hard), then up & right at the roof (harder), then up and left, then through a final thin section (also very hard) to the anchors

Climbs obvious 'lightning bolt' offwidth in between the Winsloner & Valley Girl.  Start in a nice handcrack that quickly gets wide.  OW past a couple nice rests to the intermediate anchors on the right just after a short chimney section, which allow one to rap/TR with a single 70m rope.  Or just continue to top & use 2 ropes.  A nice line.

Tall varnished face.  70m rope and about 20 draws required.  Belayer should knot the end of the rope.  Beware: deep pocket about 3 bolts from the top sometimes occupied by a bat.  Water/raft start.

A beautiful stunning line with excellent rock and great movement. A cool low crux from the first to the second bolt gets you to a great rest on a small ledge. Now suss your way through amazing thin patina edges and crimp holds that seem to magically appear just when you need them. The climbing eases off when you can grab the left side of the arete again.

Beautiful varnished overhang with a blind deadpoint to a shallow pocket at the very top.  Swallows sometimes reside in the starting pockets.  Water/raft start.

Up and over a bulge to a good rest, followed by a very thin, technical finish.  Crux involves a deadpoint to a mono pocket.

A nice face climb just right of an arete.  Start just right of Blackzilla in a grassy area.  Follow bolts to a crux up high, then continue up a few moves to the chains.  Also one can traverse left from the anchor to TR Blackzilla.

Back-to-back boulder problems on bullet rock followed by delicate climbing to the top. Route name largely attributable to Winslow prison inmate who demolished his cell window with two successive punches.

A physical route up stems, wide cracks, & a squeeze chimney.  A more accurate rating might be 5.9+++. 

  Start by stemming up a wide crack in a right-facing corner.  Continue up past a weird squeeze slot thing to fun, steep moves past horizontals to the anchor up & right.

Great route up thin patina edges.  Follow 7 bolts up to bolted anchor.

A superb route up a black varnished face.  Wanders past 11 bolts on excellent, thin patina crimpers and a couple improbable crux sequences to anchor.

The arete left of Stick it, starts on the left side of the arete, follows three bolts to an easy section, switches to the right side and stays there most of the rest of the way.  Multiple hard sections with the crux around the 5th bolt.  I've heard a range of ratings, and the crux is slabby, so consider the grade an estimate.  No idea who has the FA, but an excellent route to repeat.

This is a long pitch with lots of hands, the pro is varied since the crack constricts often.  The rock quality is good as Red Rocks, nearing Wingate.  I think the belayer should be at the highest ledge to reduce rope drag but with runners and a runout, could be belayed from the ground.

A few moves up to the slanting rail, then a big move up and left, then up progressively easier ground to the anchor.

Start up the left side of the blunted arete.  The crux is a series of balancy moves between bolts 2 & 4.  Then over to the right side of the arete to a rest. Fun, airy moves on great patina edges up a steep, black face lead to the chains.

Climbs bolted face just right of Lemongello to chains.

A solid route that climbs much better than it looks.  Start up a thin, featured crack with occasionally funky pro to better jams & gear to a rest.  Then up & left (1st crux) to some nice finger locks to a nice ledge.  Then face climbing up the right-facing corner past bolts to the 2nd crux, an improbable traverse right & up to easier ground.

Gentle overhang with nice varnished edges, one of which is pretty thin!      Water/raft start.

A fun climb.  Start up face & crack past 1 or 2 placements, then up mostly overhanging jugs to anchor.

This is an absolutely fantastic line consisting of sustained finger locking, lay-backing and precise foot work along a slightly overhanging wall, and a few rest points.

 The route starts on a ledge about 40 feet from the river. Getting there is kind of a sketchy 5.9. It is recommended to do this as an 'approach' short pitch. From there, it's 100 more feet to the bolted anchors.

Being one of the more popular "hard" routes in the canyon, Picture Me is the one usually equipped with hanging draws. The route starts off with a great climbing on crimpy pinches, side pulls, and pockets, then transitions into the obvious stem where you can recharge your tendons. A couple hard cruxes follow.  

Beautiful brown patina face with small edges and great moves.

Tricky start to nice pockets on well-featured face.  Water/raft start.

West side of the canyon, afternoon shade.

Description

Protection

Routes in West Side