This route is the complete N->S traverse of the range, summiting the Northeast, North, Middle, and South peaks. The route will require carrying over, likely with ice axes and crampons. It begins and end on glaciers, although for us it began on the Chickamin and ended on the Blue Glacier. Most of the climbing is in the 5.9 range.

Gunrunner

East Face

This route follows a hidden line, which unfolds piece by piece with amazing climbing and perfectly clean rock. Usually done in 6-7 pitches. After a short warmup section, the climbing is in the 5.90-5.10+ range the whole time.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Middle Peak