This climb is Friction ala Jtree. Some loose grit makes it a real challenge. Have fun between the second and third bolt. Slopers at the top for pulling over are the ticket to ride. Hone your foot work on this one!

Electric Birthday Party

Dangers of Conformity

Midnight Lumber

Mule Days

The Woodshed

Stitch in Time

Every Which Way but Up

Grand Canyon Donkey Trail

Precious Jewell

This climb involves an exposed lieback/hand traverse, with some jams.  It is not in the 1992 Vogel guide.

This is a fairly nice steep hand crack that's not in the 1992 Vogel guide.

A vertical 5.10B/C lieback up a loose flake (serious) leads to a delicate stemming sequence (crux) by a bolt.

Mule Days starts up some positive holds on a dike before trending up and right on pebbly but very good rock.  Make the thin moves through the next couple bolts before heading up and clipping the final bolt on Grand Canyon Donkey Trail.  Another quality BG route.

This is another much neglected climb, but due to its visibility from the parking lot at Split Rocks, and it's relatively accessible difficulty, it should see lots more action. The crack is very exciting and varied. The first bolt is solid, and the first few nut placements are excellent as well and easy to place. Technical crux is just at the start of the thin crack, but there is a possibility of failure near the top of the block due to the pump from jamming the flaring crack at the top. When I climbed this route, there was no anchor at the top, just a single bolt stud sticking out of the rock with no hanger.

Liebacking and steep face moves up a thin crack lead to a wild face crux near the top by a bolt; an excellent route.  It is not in the 1992 Vogel guide.

Climb

Midnight Lumber

to the horizontal dike, traverse right along the dike, passing four bolts and climb the upper part of "The Woodshed".

Begin this route by climbing to a high first bolt and then continue up on grainy friction past three more bolts, the last one being above the dike. Bolted anchor/rap on top.

A fun climb that would be even better were the rock higher quality. Still, not a bad route and a recommended climb if in the area and wanting to do a slab route.

Description

Protection

Routes in Grand Canyon - West Wall (E. Face)