Angling up and left, work through a technical beginning to gain the first feature, work your way to the fixed fourth bolt and be sure to clip it on your way up, then head left to the fixed fifth bolt and pull a tough lock off/mantle move to gain the base of the roof, clip the fixed 6th bolt and pull the roof to gain the overhanging upper headwall. Cruise giant features and holds past one more bolt to the anchors. Varied movement with multiple cruxes.

Back to the Feature

Captain Hooks

Never Never Will I Ever

Strickland Dyno

Blazing Saddle Sores

Schmee

Chasing Shadows

Tinkerbell

Cowell of Nocturnal

The Spice is Right

Moss Eisley Sandtina

The Leftovers

This route starts by climbing up into a thin and technical seam section. Engaging sections in between bolts, and no great rests make for a long and sustained route, with two roof pulls near the end. It's been brushed reasonably well since its been bolted, but it will clean up even more with traffic.

Sit-start on slopers, pull a hard move to gain a better sloper, then traverse slopers as far right as necessary to bust a hard move to the lip and then to an easy top out.

Sit-starts on a big ledge, work straight up past another ledge and some blocky features. Top out onto the ledge and then step across to the adjacent boulder to get down.

The PREMIERE dyno of Arkansas. The 5 ft one move wonder is the best in its class. A satellite of Fountain Red but definitely worth the hike if you're looking for a more challenging throw than Le Beak.

Shares the crack start of "Elohim" but traverses right after the 4th bolt to gain a big sidepull feature. A roof pull leads to a cool sequence guarding the anchors at the very top of the cliff.

Sit-start on slopers, pull a hard move off the ground to a better sloper and then climb straight up to a dirty top out.

Start low on a flat rail, work up and left on crimpy holds. Top out onto the ledge and then step across to the detached boulder to get down.

Sit-start as for "Never Never Will I Ever" then head right on crimps and top out with "Chasing Shadows".

A cryptic and burly boulder problem low leads to excellent climbing on immaculate rock including a beautiful tan streaked headwall.

Shares the first 4 bolts with "Back to the Feature" then angles up and slightly right. After clipping the fixed fourth bolt, head straight up into a crack feature that leads to the roof. Pull the roof to gain the easier upper head wall.

A couple of crux moves low lead to juggy climbing up an overhanging aréte before rounding the corner and continuing through moderate slab followed by a small roof just before the chains. 

A tucked away little gulley with a very rainforest like feel. A few mixed/trad routes were established here in 1994. This area is most famous for the Strickland/Mentin Dyno. You pass through this area to get to New Font. The wall left of the dihedral stays in the shade all day, and tends to stay damp. But the wall right of the dihedral, with the bolted routes, gets morning sun until around noon. Neverland is a small corridor underneath the massive Fern Gully boulder, a small collection of boulder problems.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Fern Gulley