This dramatic-looking right-leaning crack looks far easier than it is. It overhangs 15', and the crack is flaring with poor jams. 

  Climb easily up the right-leaning crack to a break at a left-rising crack. Move past a blank section to regain the right-leaning crack and follow it to its top. Move up and left on slopers to a fixed anchor.

Round Two

Nature's Pocket

The Get Down

Hawkeye

North of Nowhere

Zah Dude

This route is absolutely amazing. It has solid rock, great moves, and is located on a dramatic wall that overhangs 15'. There's a pleasant, open, flat cliff base too, that sits high in the forest canopy, and stays dry in the rain. 

  Go up the corner and right-leaning seam to a good horizontal. Rest up, then make a couple hard layback moves up an orange, left-facing edge. At its top, move right to an orange, left-facing flake, then go straight up a seam which widens to tips, then fingers, then jugs at the fixed anchor. 

  The technical crux is the move right, and the redpoint crux is the endurance in the overhanging tips crack above.

Start below a left-pointing horn. Move up to the horn, then over the bulge on slopers to a good jug rail.  Traverse right over the top of the bulge, and climb the face with cool pockets to the anchor.

A great route that feels so natural as if it was set in a gym. It is steep at the start, and has a roof at the top. 

  This is the best (and only) warmup for this cliff. Everything else is harder. 

  P1 5.11a G: Go up the steep wall on good holds to where the angle changes. Continue up a steep slab, then over a roof to a fixed anchor. 45'

Start with thoughtful and somewhat technical moves down low to get past a steep section and established on a face with good plates.  Follow the face and arete up to the roof (joining Magua's line just below the roof).  Pull over the roof and execute balancy moves to reach the chains.  

Beautiful, varied climbing with great views from the top.

 Stick clip. Nab the jug, then move left and up to a handcrack (#1 Camalot). Up this to a slab, then go up and right to an orange, left-facing open book corner. Up this to its top, then crimp up a face (bolts) to a roof. Break the roof using a right-leaning crack, then up to a fixed anchor.

 From the top anchor, you can reach left to another anchor (to toprope Magua/12d and Hawkeye/10c), and on the lower you can access the anchor of "I Got 99 Problems"/11d

Chatiemac Cliff is one of the premier steep climbing cliffs in the Adirondack Park (others include The Crown near Exit 30, The Honey Pot near Exit 31, Split Rock Canyon near Westport, and Underwood Canyon near Malfunction Junction). The main wall overhangs by 20 degrees, and some sections even more. Presently there are five 13s, two 12s, three 11s, and four 10s. The rock is generally good, with some plate-like features you find at nearby Crane Mountain, and some unique pockets. Unlike other steep crags, the overhanging rock at Chatiemac has solid holds. The routes are typically short, although there are some moderately long pitches.

 The cliff is located on the southeastern-most ridge of Gore Mountain, in the Siamese Ponds Wilderness area.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Chatiemac Cliff