Start at the same belay platform as for

Reaping Havoc

. Climb up and right over easier terrain to a high first bolt. Continue slightly right over low angle but fun climbing up to the final vertical face. Crank one hard move off a right-facing edge to reach a small ledge below the chains.

This route features a high first bolt, but the crux is very well-protected.

I'm Just A Lump Of Coal But...

Deux Pour Une

Ooo-la-la

Guillotine

Reaping Havoc

Petit Voyage

Framboise

Don't Forget Your Friends

Between Two Lovers

Shredding the Bone Apart

Rosette

This route is pretty much a one move wonder. Easy climbing down low leads to a good rest at midway height. The crux is pulling up from this rest onto the thin crack above. From here, intricate climbing leads up to the anchors.

Deux Pour Une is a very short and stout line up the blunt arete. This can easily be toproped after leading

Framboise

.

Ooo-la-la is a popular and varied climb. Pull through a small roof to start, then execute a tricky mantel, and arrive up on a tricky slab. Upward progress along the slab leads to a steeper finish, but the holds get bigger the higher you get.

Make very difficult moves on very small holds up the thin crack. Even though it's short, it packs a good pump.

This dirty face climb is immediately left of

Ooo-la-la

. It isn't really as high quality as some of its neighbors and therefore sees less traffic.

Though shorter and lower quality than "

Shredding the Bone Apart

" (5.9), this line takes good protection and finishes on a huge belay ledge that's shared with "

Deux Pour Une

".

This is one of the most popular routes on this crag with crimpy and pumpy climbing on high quality rock. The crux comes between the 4th and 5th bolts.

CAUTION! This is a mixed trad/sport line. Don't get lulled by the 4 bolts, as most people will take along some small cams to avoid the inevitable runout.

Climb up a small, left-facing dihedral that starts a few feet off the ground. This corner peters out after a few feet, and you break out onto the face above. Well-protected face climbing leads to a small roof right before the chains.

This is a very high quality crack with good gear that leads to a tree anchor. The only disappointment is that it's so short.

This climb features a steep, bouldery start that leads to an intricate slab up high. Pull through the first two bolts on huge, blocky holds. The angle kicks back after that, but the climbing gets more intricate and the grade stays consistent.

Description

Protection

Routes in Napoleon Wall