Watergate

Date with Fate

Tingey's Terror

Tarzan

Cheetah

Hesitate No More

Date With Kate

Axis of Evil Arete

Fingertrip Variation

Beckey's Wall

Tingey's Torture

Sweet Jane Variation

"Elementary My Dear Watson"

Split Decision

Siesta

3rd Crack Over

Split Pants

Split Fingers

Hesitation

Unknown Funky Wide Crack

Last Caress

Pebbles and Bambam

Shaken Climber Syndrome

The Orange Sling

Fruit Loops

Needle's Eye Variation

Tingey's Direct

A very exciting line up a vertical crack just right of the vertical portion of Beckey's Wall.  Start on Beckey's, and step right and go right up thin flakes, small crimps, and exhillarating liebacks.  This route is every bit as good as Beckey's.

This is the right line of bolts above Beckeys Wall 1st 2 pitches.  Approach as per Pebbles and Bambam, and climb the flake system on the far right of the starting ledge.  You will climb through this into the 3 bolt line.  The crux is bolted and again is a nice way to finish Beckey's Wall.  Good rock with a bit of flakiness in February (probably cleaner in summer).  Descend as per Pebbles and Bambam.

Tingey's Terror is another 5.7 route stacked on top of Tarzan.  Lots of variations exist to this climb.

P1 & P2) Approach by Tarzan or Sweet Jane Variation.

P3) From the chain anchors, climb up and right through mostly easy terrain to an anchor in the trees or a gear anchor.

P4) From the tree anchor, climb up a shallow right facing corner, which eventually becomes big up higher.  The lower portion of the crack lacks much gear, but is fairly easy.  Stop at a set of chain anchors.

P5) Two major options.  Traverse right a long ways across unprotected slab to a 3 bolt line which leads to a ledge (chain anchors). The other option is to climb the left side of the slab, requiring some gardening.  Work into a right facing dihedral, then make an easy traverse to a set of anchors.

P6) There are 3 options for this pitch.  I went up the left facing flake (fun 5.6) just to the left of the right set of anchors.  Follow this up and right through lots of trees.  Sling a tree for the belay.

P7 and beyond) From here, I think an exit pitch goes up and left, but I kept going on Tingey's Torture.

Descent) Continue up Tingey's Torture, or do the long bushy scramble over to the Schoolroom rappels.

The climb starts on ledge just above the start to

Beckey's Wall

and

Satan's Corner

where you'll find two bolts for a tie in.  The

Sweet Jane Variation

keeps this climb at 5.7.  Plug in a cam, pull a jug, and you're in the crack. There are a set of chains halfway up, bypass this belay and do the climb in one long pitch.  Great finger / small hands moves in a crack that eats up pro.  Most people start

Tingey's

with this pitch.  Two stars.

This route starts just east of Beckey's Wall, but west of Tarzan.  In other words there are 2 bolted lines east of Beckey's, and this is the left line.  The 1st 2 pitches can definitely be combined.  This climbing is sequential and thin, a testpiece of microflakes and crystals.  Getting to the 1st anchors (around the bulge) is the crux.  It starts tough and doesn't let up (my fingertips are still screaming).  The 1st 3 bolts have similar moves--micro-flakes and fingertips of steel, however getting to the anchors from the pair of bolts (1 old and 1 new) is a body english problem to stump the best of us.  The second pitch (or 2nd half of the 1st pitch) is a romp up the slab (5.10a) in comparison.  Belay at the anchors.  The 3rd pitch climb the roof with fist jams and liebacks, and then the climbing gets interesting again.  It traverses left (5.10) on thin holds around a steep section and finally slabs up the next face.There are 2 suspect bolts here so be careful.  Belay at the tree.  Pitch 4....to be continued as it got dark and we bailed.

P.S. Dont just do pitch 1, get on up ignore the grit and do pitch 3 as this adds the spice that makes the climb fun.

Crux near the top using crimpers on rotten rock. Once you get the feet and the upper flake things ease up considerably. If you are dying to make it to the top of the hesitation wall do this route. Otherwise, it is nothing spectacular. Runout climbing with small gear over rotten rock. Sounds fun eh?

Pitch 1: 5.6 X 150'

Pitch 2: 5.10 PG 150'

This is the Gate Buttress " summit" pitch. Climb all of the Tingy's Tourture and hike up and slightly west from the last set of chains, to a big pine tree with a flat base. It climbs the obvious arete past bolts. It was bolted on lead. There is a funky 5.9 crack on the left side of the formation too. Rap from fixed anchors.

Beckey's Wall

climbs the prominent right facing dihedral just right of

Satan's Corner

and left of

Tarzan

.  Pitches 1 and 2 are often combined.

P1)

Climb up slabby low angle dihedral for a short pitch to get to a set of chain anchors. (5.6)

P2)

Continue up the dihedral, doing some fun stemming up to a piton.  Then climb up the steep dihedral, using flakes on the left face.  Finish at a ledge with 3 bolts with chains. (5.7)

From here, one option is to rap to the top of pitch 1, and then to the ground.  Otherwise, continue up an easier wide crack to a belay and a tree.  Then a down climb must be done to get to the

Five Fingers

rappel, then doing a one rope rappel.

Tingey's Torture has some more pitches to do after climbing Tarzan and Tingey's Terror.  I did some interesting variations (by accident), but I will describe what the real route is!

P1 & P2) Climb Tarzan or Sweet Jane.

P3 - P6) Climb Tingey's Terror.

P7) From the trees, continue up the crack system to a V formed by to wide cracks.  Some fixed pro climbs up the face to the right of the two cracks.  Take your pick of a few good ledges for a gear anchor.

P8) Several options.  Most straight forward is a 5.6 slot straight up, stopping at a big ledge (gear anchor).  Or try a 5.10 bolted variation to the right.

P9) From the ledge, do a small runout to the first of 3 bolts.  This face is 5.8, and then has a long easy runout to a 2 bolt anchor.

P10) Traverse left from the bolts, then ramble up easy slabs to a right facing corner.  Follow this fun easy corner until a bolt on the left face.  Climb the slab up clipping a second bolt, then easily up and over to a set of chain anchors.

Descent) Long tedius scramble west down to the Schoolroom rappel, then a one-rope rap.  Another option that I haven't tried is to do some 2-rope raps and downclimbing down and right of the climb.

The Sweet Jane Variation follows most of the route Tarzan (5.10a).  Start this climb by first approaching to Becky's Wall.  Traverse 3rd class slabs right to a couple of bolts next to each other.  This is the start to Tarzan.

P1) To climb the Sweet Jane Var, start right of the bolts in a 5.7 crack.  Follow this only a short ways, until it is possible to step left into the Tarzan crack.  Then follow this crack to a 2-bolt anchor.

P2) Continue up the crack, soon encountering two cracks paralleling each other on the upper face.  Start in the left crack, then switch to the right when possible.  Follow this up to a set of chain anchors.

Descent) Lots of choices!1. Rappel using 2-ropes back to the base.2. 2 one rope rappels3. Continue up a short ways to the right, then scramble down.  I haven't done this, so I am not sure how easy it is.4. If you have time, do Tingey's Terror (and optionally Tingey's Torture) for more good pitches of climbing.

Pitch 1: Climb past a triangle shaped flake to a fist crack. Ascend this to one of 2 choices. You can move left to an undercling. Above this, difficult sporty face move leads to easier climbing. The second option is to continue up the crack 8' to a flake. Move up to a hand crack. Both options are about 5.9. It's also possible to skip this pitch by scrambling further up the gully and then traversing back left.

Pitch 2:  Ascend the bolt protected arete above to a slab. Move right past 2 bolts. Make a long reach past a steep bulge to good holds. Excellent slab climbing leads to Fudd Ledge (5.9+). If you're short, the steep bulge may not be possible. If you're tall, like Mr. Watson, then it's...elementary.

Pitch 3:  Ascend the short, beautiful face right of the regular route (5.7). You can belay at the ledge at the top of the face (small & medium cams) or continue up Tingey's.

A wide crack that requires alternating between delicate smears on the face and high-stepping, power-underclings on the crack while trying to find good stances to place large gear.

Starting from the 2nd pitch of Split Pants you'll be able to get a hand-size piece in above your belay before you get into the meat of the off width.  Step up and place a large piece (I only had a #6 that was tipped out).  From there you can either layback or use some crimps and smear the face.  I chose the latter.  Proceed to work up the crack until it slightly narrows and you can place a final piece in order to pull around the corner.  From that stance you can either place a BigBro or a TCU.  Work up the chimney a bit more and you can find a nice 00 placement.  From that point the climbing eases as you head up a gully until you reach some foliage.  Look out to the left and you'll see a set of chain anchors.  Pull up onto the slab and do some easy friction moves and then follow the rap for Pebbles and Bambam.  Note that these are not the P&B anchors and a single 70m will not get you down to Beckey's.

Right leaning finger crack way up above Beckeys Wall. This would be a great way to finish off a Beckeys Wall/Pebbles & Bambam link up.

Still a little dirty but will clean up nicely with more traffic. Hopefully people will come and check this one out! It's a little short but has good finger locks and is an aesthetic line.

Bring a 70m for the rappels.

The only mention of this route can be found in the Ruckman guide under the description for Pebbles and Bambam. There is also a picture in the Calderone LCC guidebook

After coming up Tarzan or Sweet Jane there is a sub-belay about 40 feet up. From anchor climb like your going up Sweet Jane but instead of going right go straight up a crack that slams shut. Near the terminus of the crack make a move to the left (towards Cheetah) into a really nice crack. Finger jam your way up this crack to it's end. Grab the chickenhead at the top (and wish there were 8 more), then slab your way (no pro) back to the Tarzan/"tourist variation" crack (right) where it changes cracks.

It looks possible to go over to Cheetah but the run-out looks longer and maybe harder.

This crack was packed flush with dirt and moss. After working it with a nut tool it turns out there is a nice crack under it.

An interesting route to say the least.

P1

. Start in the chimney/squeeze right of

Beckey's

and left of

Cheetah

.  Climb up this and continue to thrash your way through the trees, and broken climbing. You can stop at the slung tree or continue on pitch 2 as one long pitch.

P2

. Continue up the gully/crack system occasionally finding some good moves, otherwise it is the same tree thrash/gully romp as the first pitch.  Stop at the next slung tree.

P3

. Continue up the crack system (drool as you look at

Needle's Eye Variation

(my next trip up I will climb this)), and start angling right to get to the roof.  Undercling the roof all the way right until you can clip a piton around the corner, make a delicate step around and belay at the tree.

First two pitches are not all that special, but the last pitch was really fun, albeit with griity rock.

The book rates this a 5.6.  If I compared this traverse to

Perhaps

, this was distinctly harder.  (My two cents)  I felt 5.8 was more accurate.

From where you split right from Becky's Wall, a thin lieback leads up and right past a bolt (where an old knifeblade used to be).  Then you gain a rightward undercling right, climbing underneath the large roof past another bolt.  At the far end of the traverse you gain the Split Pants gully.  I belayed in the gully.  You can either continue up Split Pants or rappel from a tree down to the first anchors of Cheetah, and then from there to the base.  An excellent route!

From the midway belay station on the easy dihedral pitch of Beckey's Wall is a vertical flake system.  This is the start of Hesitation.  It continues up this initially well-protected flake system angling left a bit into grooves that don't protect too well (brass nuts).  A fall here would probably deck, but keep moving into another crack system that ends in nice diagonalling (almost horizontal) hand crack.  Cams or hexes are especially important here.  Work through this fun sequence into progressively worse rock, and fight your way through the trees/bushes.  About miodway through the vegetation, a vertical crack saves you from the trees; however, the rock quality maintains its poor nature.  As this crack progresses, it widens and flares into a nast offwidth.  #2's and larger are imperative to protect safely here.  The chains are within reach soon.  Beware of loose rock, dead tree branches on the upper face.  I almost took out my partner when my left handhold (1' X 2' rock), came hurtling off.  Bring your helmets.

Use your best funky wide moves to get up this slight gritty and dirty crack. End on the last bolt of “Axis of evil Arete”

Alternate pitch for pitch 1 of Tingey's Torture. From the bolted anchor under pitch 1 of T.T., pad out climbers right to 3 bolts on the edge of the slab. Follow bolts up slab, work through a thin crack and flake system past a pin and another bolt on a slab. Aim towards a low angle hand/fist crack, and blast straight up the slab above this or follow the crack and up and left into the gully; both lead to a bolted anchor.

This route is an excellent variation for the final pitch of Beckey's Wall.  From the 2nd belay station, continue up Beckeys for 10-20 feet and then work right along a ledge system.  From here you can see the line of bolts.  Climb the left line of bolts.  The last bolt can be hard to pick out, it is there.  From the anchors climb up and over (west) until you can reach some easily downclimbed ledge systems.  These will take you to a large pine tree with slings, a cable, a biner, and 2 old rap rings (Five Fingers Rappel).  Rap down and then downclimb and head east, where you can reach the Half-a-Finger anchors for a 2nd rap.  The rock on this route is nice, albeit a bit flaky.  Definitely a nice alternative to the easy gully scramble that finishes Beckey's Wall.

Make an interesting balance move past a flake. Climb the featured face above. This worthy pitch ends at a 2 bolt belay. Protection is a bit old school. Be careful not to get SCS.

The Orange Sling II (5.9)

climbs the upper slabs of the

Gate Buttress

. Begin at the top of

Date with Fate

or

Pebbles & BamBam

(same belay).

This is a fun, moderate, clean, long route because you get to combine it with

Beckey's Wall

and either of the good slab routes that climb the face right of the last pitch of

Beckey's

. Because of it's length, it has the same feel as

Tingey's Torture

. You get 7 pitches in all, although you may be able to link some of them.

Pitch 1

: climb a slab just right of a short right facing corner to a bolt. Continue up to a gear belay at a fixed pin on a horizontal crack (5.6).

Pitch 2

: Ascend the high quality slab above past 3 bolts to a bolted belay (5.9).

Pitch 3

: Climb the slab above to a steep bulge. A 5.9 finger crack in a left facing corner passes the bulge. Traverse left to a gear belay below a chockstone (#2,3 camalots).

Pitch 4

: Be carefull passing the chockstone and ascend the asthestic nobby arete (1 bolt) and a tied-off nob to the top (5.7).

This chimney is so tight that only skinny climbers can slither through...Try it naked.

Thrash up and past 2 or 3 trees to the yellow patina face. Step out onto the face and clip a retro bolt. Slab your way up using really nice holds passing 2 more retro bolts, after the 3rd retro bolt keep cruising up to join the last 2 moves on the Groove pitch. From here pad your way up the ultra classic "Terror" pitch on Tingy's passing 3 bolts to Fudd Ledge.

This makes for a nice long continuous 120 foot pitch.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Beckey's Wall Area