Start a few feet to the left of the arete. Climb up the blocky bottom to a very small overhang when it becomes crimpy. Once here, move towards the left and resist the urge to use the arete.

Temptation

She Got The Bosch, I Got Drilled

Doc Says You're Gonna Die AKA Chin And Bear It

The Arete

Rigging Route

S.T.A.N.C AKA Mr. Smoothie

Mission Impossible

Alt Access

Smell The Glove

Wonder World

Acrobat

Prenuptial Taste Test

Snake Bit

Spurtin' Outcomes

Variation

Lean Across

Climb between Mission impossible (left) and Temptation (Right) trying to maintain an independent line.

Start 10 feet of the shallow corner, approximately 3 feet left of the chiseled initials "WS 60". Awkward moves lead up and right to a series of bulges. Pull through the bulges, past a notoriously damp pocket, and head up the right-angling flake to the top.

Nice juggy warmup. Straight up through juggy edges and a big pocket to the horizontal break. Drop off.

Climb the overhanging arete through the bulges and then balance your way up the slab to the top. Although it's considered a classic, it tends to be less popular with beginners since setting the top rope requires a small, easy free solo to reach the top of the block.

Located on a short arete on southwest corner of Island Block.  This route seems to be the best way to access the top of the large freestanding Island Block in order to set up top ropes for other climbs.  There is another tempting line made up of moss covered, sloping ledges about 20 feet to the right of this arete.  Don't be fooled.  Climbing this short overhanging corner is the easiest way up onto the block and the holds are solid jugs if you take your time and feel them out. 

Just remember to take your rappel gear since there is also no easy way down from Island Block.Also, anytime you're climbing on Island Block think about climbing order.  To avoid having to re-climb an access route, always send a capable climber up last to clean up or move anchor.

Start in a good horizontal slots. Power up to a large slopey edge. Make long moves through smaller and slopier holds to a juggy slot. Drop down.

Classic! Start by following the right-angling line of weakness in the center of the face to a stance below the small roof. Pull through the roof to another small stance. Climb up and right through a serious of small holds, then finish towards the left just below the mossy groove.

Alt Access is a fairly easy climb located just to the left of Rigging Route near the southwest corner of Island Block.  Because of its short length, moderate grade, and ample protection opportunities, this route provides an alternative way to access the top of Island Block.  With some Trad gear/experience it may actually be the safest way to access to top of the block since protection opportunities are rather abundant. 

  This route is obviously a good place for a beginner to practice Trad.  While not spectacular, it may also be worth a climb on top rope if you are already on "The Block". 

  It should be noted that this route had been previously identified as an unnamed 5.6 on another website.  Since nobody cares enough to name it, I'm calling it Alt Access.  I'm also downgrading it to a 5.5 since it is straightforward and clearly easier than another appropriately graded 5.6 (Lean Across) on the same face. 

If you do lead this, remember to take your rappel gear since there is no easy way down from Island Block.Also, anytime you're climbing on Island Block think about climbing order.  To avoid having to re-climb an access route, always send a capable climber up last to clean up or move anchor.

Start with your left on the jug at the base of the large triangular hole and right hand on a two finger pocket. Using creative footwork, move up to a good edge before gaining a good pinch/jug with your right and a slopey crimp with your left. Finesse your way to the ledge above and mantle it out.Escape by downclimbing from the ledge or walking off to the right where downclimbing is easier.

Low start on pockets at waist level. Continue up through more pockets and overcome a blank bulge to attain the good edge above.

I have often felt that Island Block had opportunities for further route development, so I've been keeping my eyes open.  While climbing in the alley I spotted a new line that looked interesting.  We set up a top rope and I gave it a go, eventually successful climbing and  topping out the route.  The route was then also climbed successfully by one of my partners. 

  During our climbs there was no indication that this particular route had ever been climbed before.  It isn't listed as a route anywhere that I can find.  Maybe someone climbed it once upon a time, but if they did it has been lost to history. 

  I'm counting it as a new route/first ascent unless evidence to the contrary arises.  I'm naming it "Acrobat," since it requires some creative and athletic movements, especially at the low, overhanging crux. Myself and one of my partners both felt it was about a 5.6, clearly harder than 5.5 "Alt Access" and about the same difficulty as 5.6 "Lean Across." 

  If you are climbing in the area the new Acrobat route is definitely worth checking out.  Combined with the other routes on this face (Alt Access, Lean Across, The Arete), the alley section of Island Block can be a productive destination that offers a step up in difficulty from the more accessible and often crowded areas.  The short free solo or Trad lead to the top of the block tends to keep the total newbie/tennis shoe grade riff-raff away.  Even on the busiest of weekends, you can be almost certain of having free reign over the entire Island Block area.

Climb the dripping buckets on the far-left side of the wall as high as you dare.

Start in one of the several good chest height slots. Move up through the slots through a long move to some deep pockets. Continue up from the pockets to the horizontal break, then drop down.

Climb where you will through a series of large edges on a slightly overhanging face or utilizing good sidepulls.

Located on the west face of Island Block, Lean Across offers an a appropriately graded 5.6 experience with and interesting start.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Island Block