The Exfoliator follows the massive, inside, overhanging arete on White Cliff.  Begin at the steep base of the arete (get the first high bolt by stemming off the slab) and let the pump begin.  First crux is between bolts 1 and 2.  Follow the overhanging face passing the blunt arete (2nd crux) to the roof.  Stem wide, pull the roof, and run it up on easy slab incuts to the chain anchor.  Two rests are possible by pulling over the arete on stances.  Sustained and super enjoyable, don't let it Exfoliate you!

Due to the proximity of the slab below, if you were to fall in the first half of the route, you will come close to the slab, have an alert belayer!  If you are a 2nd, cleaning the route, you could swing down into the slab, again, have an alert belayer.  This route is NOT recommended to toprope, you may crater into the slab, guaranteed.  As the route name suggests, there is a lot of flakey stuff on the route, much of which I'd like to think I've cleaned.  Some remains.  The fin of rock between bolts 3-4 is pretty solid, yet still a fin.  Climb through this with some care.

The Exfoliator

Cool Colorado Rain

Rolling in Your Arms

Blitz Girls

Rufies

Easy Redhead

Hard Monkey

Wild Geese In the West

Overhangutang

Funky Gunky

Zebra

Water Groove

Ain't Misbehavin'

Czech Cashing

Blow All My Troubles Away

Little Di

Dirty Blonde

Big Dihedral

Parallel Universe

This route climbs the slightly overhanging corner that is above the large, horizontal roof, inside the big dihedral.  Climb up easy ground in the large, left-facing corner and stem at the horizontal roof to clip the first bolt (on the right wall).  Climb the inside corner, past 5 bolts, to the roof lip, sharing the final bolt with

The Exfoliator

.  Pull the roof, and run 25' up easy terrain to the chain anchor.

This is not my route, but now it's here on MP to spread out the crowds. This is shorter and maybe less steep than

Blow All My Troubles Away

. Collect all 4!

Collect all 4. This ascends a short, polished slab.

The route starts 30ft up a 3rd class, left-trending ramp and is the leftmost of the two routes.  Follow the bolts beginning in dark rock, up edges and incuts.  After the fifth or sixth bolt (depending on if you clipped the silly first bolt), trend a bit right and follow an excellent crack on gear to the 2-ring top anchor (

Rufies

continues left-ish with 3 more bolts).  A great line.  60m rope just makes it, tie a knot in your rope end or risk dropping your leader!

Rufies is a sport variation to

Blitz Girls

.  Begin on

Blitz Girls

and after the 5th bolt, trend left, following 3 more spacious bolts to the top anchor.  This is a nice alternative if you don't have trad gear for the finish of

Blitz Girls

.

Easy Redhead in the 2nd route left on the chimney on the East Wall of White Cliff.  Walk 10m up the ramp and begin to follow the line up to a large, incut ledge with anchors.  A fun beginner line with an option to climb to the top via

Dirty Blonde

to the right.  Everybody likes an easy Redhead!

On the main, left (White) face, follow the left bolt line to the top anchors.  The crux is right off the first bolt and eases higher.  The rock continues to exfoliate, so be prepared for very small flakes to come off and fall on your belayer.  Fun line, similar to its neighbor.  Maintains the original bottom bolt.

I found these 4 routes by walking farther East of the regular White Cliff walls.  They aren't mine, but the bolts are in and they're fun to do.  The rock is smoother and looks like melted ice cream compared to the main wall; they get easier as you move right.

Just right of the main White Cliff slab area are two routes that pass through a large, low roof. Funky follows the right set of bolts.  The climb begins left of the large arete with slabby/bulge start with the first bolt at the lip of the roof.  Carefully clip the first bolt, crank the roof (cruxy) and follow the line up to the airy second and final roof.  Pull this and sit back on the top anchor chains.  Be careful of loose rock on the final roof.  It has a great start and like a good beer...a great finish, Super "Gunky".

Zebra is the right route of two found on the right wall of White Cliff.  Walk up the 3rd class, left-trending ramp to the right set of bolts.  Follow the line up the "zebra striped" wall to a 2-ring anchor on top.  A 60m rope just makes it. Tie a knot in your rope or you run the risk of dropping your leader off the end of the line, risking a potential 40' fall to the ground.

AKA "Hornblende Highway", this route is just left of the shorter, left-facing, angling corner.  Follow a 6-8" wide seam of black hornblende straight up the face, passing the end of the left corner/roof.  Tan anchors mark the finish.  The climbing isn't very hard, but the placements are poor in flared cracks, especially down low.  The left-facing corner/roof half-way up offers the best solid pro, clip this with a long runner.

Follow the leftmost bolt line on the left wall of White Cliff. 6 bolts lead to a 2-bolt anchor  This is another great line with a cruxy start and a mellow finish. If you traverse left (then back right) after the first bolt, it goes at 7+ with a pendy fall if you don't stick it.

This route passes a huge, low roof, 40' left of the large overhanging arete/left-facing corner.  Work up on slabby rock to a tricky first bolt clip at the lip (in the interest of safety, the key here, solid foot-jam).  Crank on small sloper holds with shotty feet to pull the lip and angle up-left on a few 8/9 slab moves to the chain top anchor.  One (powerful and technical) move wonder.  You can cheat the direct line by climbing left on blocky holds (5.7/8) and working back right to the bolt line.  Doing this risks a ground fall.  You can also start on Funky Gunky and traverse left after the 2nd bolt to finish on 5.8+ terrain to the chain anchors.

This is a fun route over polished black and white rock.

This natural line is on the right side of the main, White Cliff slab.  It is just right of the two bolted lines and follows a left-trending roof.  Lots of fun variations exist with face holds, cracks and smears.  The roof can be passed at any time, but the main line follows up under the roof and straight up the face at the end of the roof, to a tan chain anchor.  The crack under the roof takes great gear but may be damp at times.  A variation is to climb the face, 15' left of the corner (8' right of the right bolt line), following a thin, flared black hornblende seam (poor, thin pro, R) to the end of the roof and continue the seam to the top anchor.

Dirty Blonde is the right-most route on the East Wall of White Cliff, just left of a chimney/gash.  Begin at a slabby 'toe' on unprotected 5.6 slab to a ledge just below a horneblende roof at the base of the Ramp.  Follow 4 bolts to a ledge anchor and then 3 more to the top where 2 double ring anchors await.  You could make one, one-rope rap (knot yer ends!) to just below the horneblende roof and downclimb-traverse climber's right into the chimney/gash and carefully continue to downclimb or (better yet) make a double rope (2-50 or 60m ropes) rappel.  Dirty Blondes are always more fun!

This route follow the massive crack along the left-facing corner/slab.  Bring some big gear.  This may be a bit wet/slimy down low.  Follow the crack to the top.  Move left or right 10' to chain anchors atop neighboring routes.  DO NOT confuse this with the bolted line that follows the overhanging arete!

On the main (White), left, slab face, follow the right bolt line to the top anchors.  The crux is right off the first bolt and eases higher.  The rock continues to exfoliate, so be prepared for very small flakes to come off and fall on your belayer.  This is a fun line, similar to its neighbor. It maintains the original bottom bolt.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in White Cliff