This tough, fun sport climb ascends an arete from the bowels of a slot up into full view of the people taking the stairs to the lookout.   It's a pretty cool position, fairly protected but a little runout towards the top when the difficulty subsides.  The sequences are not obvious but if you need to work it the bolts are in good spots.

Temporary Insanity

Leather Face

Mowing the Yawn

The Muse

Song of the Sirens

Good rock, fun climb.  Sketchy to just use bolts, either bring small pieces in addition to the bolts or set up a top rope.

Start is the crux.  Go up towards the stairs and then turn left.  There is a detached little cliff in front of the main wall with three bolts for a top rope.

Really classic, overhanging, sustained line up positive holds past about about 4 bolts to a bolted belay.  Probably the most popular line on Buck Rock, and for good reason.  It's stiff for 10a because it wont give you a break until you top it out.

Crimps, jugs, sidepulls.  Lots of variations on a fun climb.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Buck Rock