Climb the nearly vertical face using crimpers past the dished-out section 15 feet up.  Small holds provide good friction for climbing shoes.  Decent holds are really hard to spot, but with feeling around they can be found.  Mid-10 rating.  Letter grades are more for sport routes, not TR's.

Bestard

Finger Stinger

Heat Seeker

Downclimb route

5.10 Layback

Mission Impossible

Thin Crack

Alaska Crack

Climb the seam in front of the short slabby boulder (6-foot tall boulder at the north end of Right Wall).  Vertical with side-pulls, crimpers, and balancy moves.  Look for the sweet side-pull with thumb-hook hold high up.

Climb the vertical route with small crimper holds the whole way, and several unique bat-wing thumb hooks in the dished out middle part of the route.  Balancy moves.  Past the dished out section, the holds get a bit larger, with a reachy side-pull high up.  The route eases off a lot 3/4 up the wall, like most routes on this wall. 

  Sustained difficulty.  May be the hardest 5.11 route other than Gandalf, and One Step Beyond, although Dynamo Hum is right in there.

Sequency hand and foot work. Lots of hold variations, with crimpers, side-pulls, a mantel, a small slot, gastons, a pinch hold, precision foot work.  Short balancy moves.

Not much to this route, just scamper onto each successive ledge. We used this to intro the kids to climbing because it's super easy with plenty of room to stand there and help a little one.  

Climb the nearly vertical face, using small holds and a layback move or two.

Update: By J. Thornton on Dec 25, 2012   This problem is actually on Big Overhang wall, and is same start as Hidden Jewel.   ---- Thanks for the help J. Thornton. -Tyler 

  1080p HD Video of the first send by Tyler Garrett VIA GoProCam. 

youtube.com/watch?v=NEB-HUQ… watch to learn the moves to make this a must see at mineral wells. 

  Route Name:   When working this out I felt like we were on mission impossible because of how close to the ground you are, can't even get a pad underneath it. Luke, a sick sick sick sport climber, thinks this is a V5, but since I made the video I'm calling it a V4 ;-) because I sent it first. 

  Route Rating:   There are a lot of ways to go about solving this problem. My beta/moves will make it V4. A lot of intermediate moves to get to the finish but these moves will give you a challenge. At the very least do the start, drop into the bottom shelf, and work your way to the largest shelf and continue on to the finish, I wouldn't give the other beta more than a V2 rating. 

  Beta:   Two hand start, fall into the lower shelf of holds. Heel hook and move your way up to the crimpy right hand then off to the AMAZING pocket on the left. From their high feet and dyno for the sloper. The slope is a terrible hold, very sharp rocks near the top, and bumping to the last pocket from this is very challenging and I would consider it a V4+ if you use the slope and bump to the finish.  

  Rules:   Now remember boys and girls... bouldering or free climbing as they call it, is not allowed in the Park... But one climber is allowed to free climb to set the top rope! But only one person can do it!! So every time you start bouldering, be sure to tell everyone what your intent is. 

  Hope you enjoy the route, drop some feedback in the comments. 

  Cheers,   Keamo

Look for a hand crack that goes about half way up the wall, before turning into a fairly juggy face climb. Crux is getting off the ground - layback to the right, and look for a high left foot. After the crack, trend to the right on the slab and top the route.

The main canyon houses the largest number of climbs and is where most people hang out.  A lot of groups come here just to rappell this wall because the top is so easy to access.  Routes range from 20 to 40 feet.  There are a couple decent cracks that correspond with some of the best routes at Mineral Wells here.  The routes in the middle are in the 5.9 - 5.10 range and the routes near the ends tend to be easier. 

  This wall is in the shade most of the day, but it also doesn't get any breeze.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Canyon Left