This climb faces north on the Milepost and gets some shade, at least in winter days. It offers good gear and fun moves, albeit a pain to build an anchor up top and get down from.

Go to the north face of the Milepost (right side, if viewing from the road) and scramble up a few rocks to find 2 easy crack systems on the back of this rock. The left-most of these is French Flies (5.7) & the right is Chocolate Snake (5.6).

Belay up top in a notch (body for a chock/anchor) or scramble over the cliff to the south side and scramble down to the bolt anchors above The Gettysburger and belay.  Rap from the same anchors, or down-climb the north face. Retreat is a pain.

French Flies

The Gettysburger

Chocolate Snake

Scrambled Legs

This route is on the right side of The Milepost's southeast face and offers sustained, technical climbing right off the road.

Scramble up ledges to reach the start of the climb which is across a 10' deep chasm. Stem across, clip a bashie and then pull into a lieback/undercling to clip a bolt. Move up past a large, semi-solid blob of rock, clip the second bolt (1/4") and make delicate stemming moves to mantle awkwardly onto the blob (crux). Shorter climbers may find this section to be even harder as they strain for a distant edge under the last bolt. Once established at the last bolt traverse right (hint - stay low) to gain the base of a steep, featured crack which is followed to the top. It's possible to climb straight up past the last bolt and join the crack higher, where it jogs slightly left. Done this way it's a little spicier (but safe) and seems more like 5.11a.

This route packs a lot of good climbing into a small package and it's steeper than appearances might suggest, which earns it two stars out of five.

This climb faces north on the Milepost and gets some shade, at least in winter days. It offers good gear and fun moves, albeit a pain to build an anchor up top and get down from. Go to the north face of the Milepost (right side, if viewing from the road) and scramble up a few rocks to find 2 easy crack systems on the back of this rock. The left-most of these is French Flies (5.7). Chocolate Snake (5.6) starts as for French Flies, but diverts to the right (west) end of the north face instead of the left.

Belay up top in a notch (body for a chock/anchor) or scramble over the cliff to the south side and scramble down to the bolt anchors above The Gettysburger and belay.

Rap from the same anchors, or down-climb the north face.Retreat is a pain. TR anchors might be made with a cordalette over some big horns.

On the left edge of the south face of the Milepost rock, there is a flake system that goes up to a comparatively blank face (2 bolts) and then up to a well protected crack. This is the left edge of the main wall shown in the attached picture.

Climb up the obvious line to reach the rock summit, then down and left to the fixed anchors as for

The Gettysburger

The route was probably 5.10b although it got 10c in the book.

Fun climbing, but just for a few moves. 1 star overall.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Milepost