The climb is a short climb.  The rock quality is deceptive. A lot of the holds look and feel stable initially, but the rock breaks very easily. I had multiple holds break off right in my hand almost resulting in a fall. There is brush and dirt on many of the holds and right up the middle of the route.  It was a good climb, even though it was short. It was challenging mentally but fairly simple physically. If you plan on climbing this route, be very careful. There is a trail at the top that leads back to the road. The route is named Shake 'N' Bake due to the fact that the rock makes you uncomfortable enough to shake, and if you fall you're baked! Don't shake on this route! You may end up baked roadkill! Be careful of loose rocks falling on traffic!!

Shake 'N' Bake

5.9 Crack aka "Into the Void"

Ariel Don't Fall

5.8 Crack

5.7 Face

Changing Corners

5.6 Face

5.7 Dihedral

5.7 Arete

5.9 Face

5.10a Face

5.10 Crack aka "Thin Fingers"

This route is the obvious serrated crack on the right side of the face. Excellent jugs and jams lead to the steep crux (5.8). Short but fun climbing overall.

This route is the slabby crack left of the 10a face/roof route.  It contains a few moderately interesting overlaps before getting to the big split in the roof, which can be pulled on jugs.  Not the greatest route in the world, and the roof is probably not good for a beginning trad leader.

Start on the easy 5.8 crack route, follow the good crimps with some good and bad feet, and after a few moves, get into the easy crack. Follow it as it goes up and left, use the little roof halfway up the wall, and work around the roof. Top out to the left where it is more of a scramble. Don't fall.

This is the far left face, just left of the left facing dihedral. This is the route that I think the bolts at the top are for. To access the bolts on top of the crag, go to the (climbers) left side to a little alcove where there is one bolt. Use a belay to access the bolts about 10 more feet down on the face. I gave it no stars because there isn't a distinct line on the face to follow. I did almost give it one because there is a lot of interesting climbing all over the face.

This is what we improvised for a new route.  It starts on the dihedral until you get about 7' below the roof, and then crosses west (climber's right) over to the 5.7 arete and face by means of some positive handholds.  Changing corners from dihedral to arete/face is the crux, 5.8.  Once on the face, continue on the arete  (climber's left) or climb the face toward the right up to the top.  You can climb over the top from there toward the TR/anchors, but you have to climb over the rope.  Lowering requires dropping back over the arete, or lowering down the right face to a ledge or down to the dirt, although the rope pulls you over to the fall line (towards the dihedral).

This is a nice line that follows the farthest left side of the crag. Start on a big block or start on the thinner lower section. There are some great golds leading to a fun crack. This climb takes good gear and is a nice pleasant climb for a warm-up.

This route is on the left side of the crag in an obvious dihedral. The climbing is very good, and I would give it three stars except it is lacking length and location. It starts on the slab and works its way up the dihedral to a weird chimney thing. This is the short but awkward crux. You can traverse diagonally left across a bulge after this to the bolts, but it is much better to continue up the dihedral to the fist crack under the roof and traverse left.

This is a great route with excellent rock and fun climbing.

Climb the arete on the far left side of the main face.

This beautiful (but short) arete has about ten really nice reachy moves between positive edges and dishes, with two or three nice undercling moves to finish on a bushy ledge.  You can make the route A LOT harder by starting in the big dihedral around the corner to the left and then moving up and right onto the arete.

Lower off from the bushy ledge, or move right and turn the roof at the top of the 5.8 crack on huge jugs. The roof is harder than 5.8.

Once your at the base of the crag, this is the sport line on the right side. The first bolt is a bit high, but the climbing is only about 5.6 to get to it. Nice line that progressively gets harder as you move up. The crux comes at the small roof and if your feeling a bit bold, you can move through it towards the left, or take the easier way on the the right. There are solid holds all the way to the anchors.

At the base of the crag, this is the sport route on the left side. Like the other sport line, the first bolt is high up, but the climbing only about 5.6 to get to it. Climb progressively harder moves as you get closer to the roof, but all are positive. Get solid holds on the roof with a big step to get over it.

#3 in the beta picture, this route is an easy aid if you can not lead it.  You should be solid on 5.10 lead before you attempt this on lead, some of the placements are tricky.

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Location

Protection

Routes in Lookout Mountain Crag