This route starts off the ledge left of

Funky Cold Patina

. It has steep, crimpy climbing with a heady insecure crux up high.

Liquid Zen

Ionic Breeze

Cosmic Kite

Funky, Cold Patina

Unforgiven

Climb a thin face past bolts to an undercling/fingercrack. It is a long pitch.

This has slabby face climbing on a pillar.

Start below the high first bolt, and reach high to a flat edge (alternatively, use the detached block at right to reach an obvious pocket, and pull onto the wall from there. The start is a bit chossy and starting at the pocket doesn't change the grade at all.). Easy moves on good holds lead to a stance at the 1st bolt. From here, launch into a powerful V6ish section through large hueco features that ends at the 4th bolt, where a good rest awaits.

After resting, move into a cryptic and very hard sequence involving barely usable handholds and delicate and tenuous smears through a steep slab that is somewhere in the V8ish range. A tenuous 5th clip complicates matters in the middle of the crux section. After about 15 feet of barely staying on the wall, you'll arrive at the 6th bolt. From here, the slab lessens in steepness and the holds start to improve. A final bulge guards the anchors.

A true test of slab skills, strength and technique from start to finish, this climb is unfortunately marred by lower quality rock on the first half of the climb, which definitely takes away from the overall quality of the line, but the movement and difficulty certainly make it worth getting on if you're looking for something more challenging in the area.

This was formerly the Wall Of The Ancients 'Project' listed in '

The Wild Wild West

' guidebook.

This is a left-arching route that shares an anchor with

Liquid Zen

.

Description

Protection

Routes in Wall of The Ancients