After a long, arduous hike, I began to wonder if I had wasted my time and energy.  Presiding Nymph did not disappoint.  It climbs even better than it looks, and I'm pretty sure that I drooled when I first saw it.  Some of the jams are funky, but they are so sweet!  Then there are these stretchy stems at the crux that make your pants split!  It gets narrow fast, and you start to squeeze a little, but a bomber wrist lock bails you out and deposits you on a sloping ledge.  A short crack guards the top.  Here, wide hands or narrow fists supplement fantastic foot jams.  The rock here is gritty and it exfoliates a steady stream; however, the rock instills more confidence than you would first imagine.

Presiding Nymph

Run Aground

Scandinavian Tuna

This is the unique and roundabout way to climb the arete of the

Gallant Wall

.

Holding as much character as it does kitty litter, i'm not sure which is crustier-

Scandinavian tuna

or

English tuna

?

A bit friable,

Scandinavian Tuna

offers a spicy way to reach the top of the buttress.

Established ground up in 1993,

Scandinavian Tuna

preserves its old school feel by hosting exposed and spacious climbing with protection only available at obvious stances. Climb with confidence, this route leaves little room for error.

Start in the center of the

Gallant Wall's

left face. Very alert climbing over a tricky face gains a hidden pin set behind a two foot wide ledge. From here a delicate and committing traverse left allows another stance at a bolt. Next, a couple of thin slab moves on an attention demanding arete eventually get you to a rest at a separation in the wall. At this point, the final two pins become visible. Continue climbing what may be the crux past cool crystal dikes. Top out and walk to the anchor.

Scandinavian Tuna

is an adventurous way to "test the waters". The route has tough climbing between good rests. This is an excellent way to warm up to the steeper routes on the wall as well as test your psyche for live-wire climbing.

Run Aground is a super-dirty chossfest that has a few redeeming hand jams toward the top.  Start up a crack in a dihedral.  Climb through the trees and milk the hand cracks above for all they're worth.  Don't make the long, arduous hike for this climb alone.  Oh, and try not to pull the loose rocks down onto your partner.  How's that for a crux?

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Gallant Wall