This ascends the super steep, 5" to 7", roof crack. There are some face holds, but apparently you still have do an inversion past the steepest part. I heard through the grapevine that Lisenby put this beast up.

Lard

The Bushwhacker

Legalize It

Ben's Dyno

Pinball

Guns Or Knives, Butch?

Delusions of Grandeur

The Black Hole

Thin Smile

Menudo on We

Hesitation

Delusions of Persecution

Out and Back

Spurred Arete

V3 variation

Unknown

Medusa's Knees

Start low and make a series of moves through the really cool featured, tufa-like holds up to two very small, sloping crimps, then rock up and over and make a few more dainty moves to top out.

Thin, balancy climbing leads to a top out so bad I grabbed the bush out left, hence the name. Don't fall near the top.

This is a good warm-up problem for Vodka Block if you're not looking to highball while alone (me).

Start with both of your hands on the lower ledge with a decent foot just above the choss. Throw big to some decent holds halfway up, then once you've adjusted feet, throw big again to a slightly sandy dish. Get the other hand up there on a knob and you are home free.

I heard that Ben Rueck dyno'd this problem - which is insane. It can also be done without the dyno at about V1, and is a good problem also.

A couple reachy moves leads to a big jug. From there, either throw really, really big to the lip (spooky) or make to or three extra moves to gain the lip.

Sit start with a matched layback in the pocket and a foot on the horizontal ledge under the roof.  Climb the left trending seam to a good undercling and top out on slopers.

An absolutely stellar problem.

Start low at the lip of the low roof (same start as Ben's Dyno). Throw upwards, get your feet up, and move left aiming for a big shelf. From here you've got a huge deadpoint out right. If you're under 5'8" it will probably be a dyno. It goes static as well with a shoulder press, but I recommend the big throw.

Another problem exists moving even further left, though its more sketchy and not as good.

Sit start at the arete in a good pocket under the overhang. Move left making some sequency moves, eventually gaining two obvious pockets halfway up the face. No more holds from there - you must dyno to the lip. Very cool.

This is more of a party trick or a distraction than a real problem, or maybe it's on the "I'm training for a real OW someday" circuit along with the

Lisenby Roof

. At any rate, it's the dark flared squeeze/OW right of the Delusions Problems.

On what may have been the FA, the crew I was with decided the secret beta for this problem: no shoes. So kick off those Evolvs and try this one barefoot!

This is a sweet finger and tips crack to a tricky top out.

Onsighted by the Slab Maestra, Gwen Cameron and given the total sandbag rating of V2. Getting off the ground is the frustrating crux of this gem (don't use the detached block on the left- it is OFF). Once on the problem, enjoy an improbable link of tiny pockets and delicate smears. An amazing line. Heady top out.

It's possible that this line was climbed long ago, but lack of info led us to believe Gwen had the FA.

(NOTE: If you can't make the first move and feel compelled to use the left cheater stone, you'll have a hell of a time with the exit move up HIGH, as it's nearly as difficult. Best to save this problem for another day, or top out the left variation which is much easier).

Scary. This was done ground up and onsight (all my highballs were except

Forgotten Friend

), and it is unlikely this line has seen a second ascent.

Start at the lip, 3 feet off the ground, and make powerful moves up to an obvious mantle. Here most climbers will gracefully bow out...hence the name. Once done hesitating, climb just left of the arete to pockets and crimps and make a desperate mantle onto a holdless summit. A classic if you enjoy mind-control highballing.

Project?

Do the same start as

Delusions of Grandeur

, but go right and climb the steep, painful patina.

Sit start under the large roof on the obvious flake.  Traverse left with heel hooks and exit the roof.  Pull up to the next ledge on a couple of good pockets and begin traversing back right.  Either campus or  heel hook right around the nose of the roof and strenuously top out on the right side.

This is another great arete problem on the Ridge. This may be a bit of a squeeze job, but it avoids the painful, razor patina that

Delusions of Persecutions

climbs and climbs straight up the thuggy arete.

Start with right hand in large hueco down and right. Your right hand is in the large, starting hueco hold for

Delusions of Grandeur

. Start with your feet low. Make your way initially right, but then head straight up the arete. The last move grabs a decent ledge right of a rounded nub. The topout can be a bit sandy, it is best to know the exit!

This is a fun variation to

Legalize It

if you want to knock up the rating a level. Start with great hand holds on the lower ledge of the prow to the left of

Legalize It

, and traverse right until you reach the start of the problem. The foot beta is super fun to figure out. Climb straight up and top out as you would in the other problem.

This is terrific climbing at the grade.  A big throw from under an overhang leads to crimpy patina moves and a delicate top out. It is sustained and excellent.

If anyone knows the name of this great line, or has a good idea for a name....

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Dynamite Cliff Band