This is a fun climb and popular lead.  There are a couple of options for the start: you can either climb the outside corner to a stance and then step right, or climb the blocky face to the right that is in direct line with the upper part of the climb.  Continue climbing to the right of the arete to a small ledge just below the crux at about 3/4 of the way up.  The crux is an awkward right leaning layback to a decent crack.  Reach high and work your feet up the smooth surface.  There are a couple of old pins on the route.  Like most of the climbs here, Outside Corner felt stiff for the grade.  Photo.

Outside Corner

Thunderstorm

Needles

Pins

The Power of Positive Thinking

Bombay

Tensile Strength

Climb the prominent, flaring dihedral at the right edge of the face. Tt seems impossible for the first couple of tries due to the bulging/sloping right side and the non-positive holds on the left.

Face climb between Pins and Tensile Strength.

Start in a wide, right-leaning crack, with a small seam that leads up to the left.  Climb past a left-angling crack (The Power of Positive Thinking, 10) to a small pod on the right side of the crack about 1/2 way up.  Reach for a good, right-facing, side pull and pull up through the blank face (crux).  The second difficulty is climbing though the small edges with poor feet near the top.

This is a much better climb than it appears from the ground. Start up Pins (5.9) until you hit the left-angling seam.  You can hand traverse here with a bad feet or climb Pins slightly higher and have the seam for feet.  Mantle onto a good ledge and take a good rest before the crux.  From here, follow a thin seam straight up using small edges, side pulls, and a few deceptive holds in the seam.  I found the climbing to be quite sequency, technical and way harder than the surrounding climbs.  I was surprised that I was still on the wall most of the time. 

  Eventually you can reach some bigger holds out right from the seam.  Have a good rest then grab a hidden jug and fire through some small edges and a fun layback to the top. 

  On first effort, I felt this climb to be 11-, but it might just 10+ though Boston Rocks gives it grade of 10.  Until you figure out the beta, it feels desperate.  Lots of holds are hard to see or difficult to determine if they are any good until your hand is on them. 

  Definitely give it a try if you set up a rope for Pins or Outside Corner.

Start in the wide crack to right of Tensile Strength, then climb the thin cracks above.

Tensile Strength climbs the line of old quarter inch bolts right of Pins.  The first 3/4 of the climb is fun, fairly easy climbing.  Climb a thin crack to a flake that trends up and left.  Follow the sloping holds along the flake until you can pull up and stand on top of it.  The crux is the blank section above.  Strenuous moves on small nubbins and edges lead to the top.

There is lots of loose rock above the right side of this face. To its left is the L Face. The climbing here was aesthetic in some ways and lends the sense you are climbing something a bit bigger. Additional graffitti has detracted from the ambience. With the big fill-in, it is much easier to access the climbing here. 200 feet of dirt sure helps. No dangling above water anymore.Be careful if you use the installed bolts when setting up a toprope. Some of the bolts are not secure. 

L->R:A.Outside Corner, 8, 1p, 50', gear or TR, nice shot.B1. The Power Of Positive Thinking, 10, 55'. lead photoB2C. Pins, 9, 1p, 50', TR.C. Needles, 10, 1p, 50', TR.D1. Tensile Strength, 10-, 1p, 50', TR.D2. Ironmonger, A2.E. Bombay, 10+, 1p, 50', TR.F. Thunderstorm, 10 or V1-2, 20', TR or pad.G. Static Cling, 10-.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in K Wall (aka M Face)