Start matched on the jug (climber's right side of boulder). Traverse across less-than-ideal downward-sloping edges, and make a shouldery gaston. Square up, and fire for the lip. Mantel for the finish. Perhaps this variation has already been done.

Cascadia

Tickle Me, St. Elmo

Cabin Boulder

Cascade Arete

MoFo

Crystal Meth Arete

Obvious arete on the Crystal Meth Boulder. Start low on the left.

This is short and ugly, but it eats gear and has 7 or 8 surprisingly great moves on good stone.

Look for the left-angling crack system beneath an overhang. Launch up some thuggish old-school handjams (.8+) whilst dodging bat guano and that one questionable looking granite dagger jutting out at 2/3rds height, then get the feet high and pull the lip (9).

Walk off to the right (west) via a short 3rd Class gully. You can get an easy TR setup via the same.

There are other new route possibilities up the overhanging fist crack (arrow marked 'B' in beta photo) and dihedral ('C').

This is a hidden gem. We have been climbing here since 1995. We own a cabin in Alpine.

Sit start at middle of

Cascade2.

. Lunge for lip then mantle up.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Cascade Boulders