Route to the right Honeycomb, left of Sentinel Chimney. A classic trad testpiece from the late 1970's. Once a bold route, not pretty tame from retro bolts on all pitches. Gets and R rating in Lander Rock 2nd edition. Very well protected with a light rack and bolts.

p1- Climb steep wall past retrobolts to finger crack to hands to an anchor with drop-ins. 100' 5.9. Good pitch on its own. Once very bold....

p2- Steep corner (hands) to bolt above roof with really odd mantel-back flop-stem move. Wild. Clip bolt before committing to move. Soft rock to finger- hand section, then traverse left (look for bolt above final traverse (10a) to belay, or link with p3. 70 ft.

p3- If you used long runner to prevent rope drag, this pitch can be climbed with p2. Some face moves past 3 bolts to rap anchor. Once a bold lead with one pin over the ledge, now a bolt ladder. Maybe 10c, more like 10b. Rap route. A little sandy in a few spots, but really cool movement and exposure for the length. Even with the retrobolts, this takes trad skills but is pretty darn safe.

Group Grope

Standard Start

New Sensations

Arapiles Revisited

honey comb haulbags

Ancient Graffiti

Sentinal Chimney

No Name Crack

Gunky

Standard Route

Dang Nab It

This here line, goes Between Group Grope and Honey Comb. 2 pitches with distinct cruxes. be careful moving off the  pitch 1 belay.  a worthy climb for the choss rock enthusiast! get some!

A left facing crack that starts thin and progressively widens at the top.  Lots of face features and stuff inside the crack make it interesting.

Left side of the Sandstone Buttress is a short, compact wall, just right of the Longest Yard (5.10+ trad) and left of the Maverick (5.11d). Traverse riight and Boulder the super stout, sandstone flat wall.

Steep roof left of Gunky. It used to be classic!

pitch one-cracks and bolts to two bolt anchor.

Pitch two-intermittent cracks to large huecos protected by bolts, pull huecos through small roof at crux, watch for birds and bird feces...sweet.

Pitch Three-Not memorable or obligatory, can link 2+3 together with runners.

A short (15 foot) squeeze chimney leads to a large ledge. Continue up a narrow dihedral and a hand crack to another ledge. Follow face holds and a hand crack up to the chimney proper. Climb the chimney to a significant ledge. From here, climb right into a small chimney, then traverse up and left towards the break in an overhand. Climb up between the overhand and the cliff wall at it's smallest point to another ledge. Then climb up easy slabs to the top.

Follow the prominent right facing corner system through liebacks, off widths, flakes and over a roof. Crux is a 5.8 roof 10 feet over your last good piece.

Pitch One: Scramble up onto the grassy ledge and into the back of the gully.  Climb easy 5th to another large ledge and a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch Two: Move the belay 10 feet to the left to the base of a sandy crack system (not the good looking crack on your left).  Follow this up and right of the roof to a two-bolt belay. Clean some of the dirt out of the cracks for the next party.  Crack systems just to the left or right provide more challenging climbing.  5.5

Pitch Three: Continue up the crack system and move left across the slab (1 bolt) to a chimney.  Head up before making the step around move (crux) to a large ledge and a 2 bolt anchor. 5.6

Pitch Four:  Follow low-angle terrain up and left to a final two bolt anchor.

Alt. Pitch Four:  Head straight up past one bolt on some cool patina edges.  Pull the small roof to a two bolt anchor.  5.8

Climb this route in four short pitches  or combine pitches 2 and 3 with minimal rope drag.

Walk off or rap from the top of the 5.8 4th pitch variation to the top of the 2nd pitch, and then to the ground.  Watch the ends of your rope on the second rappel.

The tamest route on the panel, Dang Nab It is still a real sandstone sport pitch, with some english and some cowboy burl. Much safer then its left neighbor, The Maverick. Dang, takes some arapiles style micro buldges up to a slab, then grapples a steep right facing mini corner to finish. Watch out for poisen ivy at the start!

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Sandstone Buttress