From the base of Fluted's East Face, climb the prominent couloir in the middle of the face just south of the summit.

The climb starts as a moderate snow climb until two short AI2/M1-2 sections are encountered.  After climbing past these 2 rock/ice bands, the crux is encountered.  Either climb a short 30-40 foot AI3 pitch or a 100 foot mixed chimney (M2/5.3) on the right.  The climb continues as a moderate snow climb until nearing the top.  If a cornice blocks further progress in the main couloir, take a hidden left spur couloir ~100 feet below the ridge.

The top of the left spur becomes a steep snow climb.  From the ridge, hike 3 minutes to the summit.

The best descent is to either climb up and over Little Horn Peak or descend Flute's north ridge to the Fluted-Horn saddle and then back to Dry Lakes.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Fluted Peak