This weird route is more like a V2+ boulder problem with some forgettable 5.10 approach climbing and a gear-protected finish on easy slab. I enjoyed this route more for the novel puzzle than for the actual movement. Fortunately there is a small ledge that allows a person to down climb and recover while reconnoitering the crux before committing to the blind moves.

Once over the lip, a long 5.7 slab leads to the chains above—it's not a bad idea to bring 1.5" and 2" cams to protect the finish.

Me First

Mr. Bo Trundle

Gold Finger

Magic Fingers

Ratchet

Satanic Mechanic

Sunshine Daydream

Great White Hunter

Thindependence

Rat Salad

Spookalator

Slap Happy

Follow two dihedrals up into a roof and finishing on the slab above.  The crux is pulling the roof.

Awesome, low percentage slabbing! Starts as for Mr. Bo Trundle (10d) but shoots straight for the beautiful, left-angling seam. The mid section is stout and ends at a decent rest before the "slab", seam section above. High crux (for me) at about bolt 6. The chains seem pretty far away after clipping bolt 7, but it is cruiser.

Start on a short, slabby section, and clip a lone bolt to get to the magic fingers corner in the finger crack. The crux is pulling over a bulge section with some thin feet and smearing.

Start through some ledgy sections, but move up to some exciting crimps through good, steep rock. The bolts are good through the crux, but there is a large runout that can be protected with gear down low.

Climb the thin face to a good horizontal break with a piton (might want to clip with a long sling).  From here, climb through roofs on jugs and some tricky moves to the anchors that are located on the underside of the huge roof at clifftop.

A harder & steeper start gives way to more great (and a bit easier) climbing above.

This starts in a dihedral and begins by following a large crack up and to the left before heading straight up.

The large, left-angling crack and a horizontal break in the rock about halfway up distinguishes this climb.

Trend right at the start to establish under the finger crack proper. Get good gear (small TCU) from stance and gun up a tricky sequence to find more small gear and tricky and polished climbing above! The face is really polished so you may find it pumpy for the grade. Move left under roof section and continue up overhanging blocky dihedral to chains.

Aptly named: edible, perhaps even satiating, but lacking top-shelf ingredients, this route offers some fun, airy moves that will get you pumped, but the rock is a wee bit sharp with scaly holds that are prone to crumbling. I doubt this line will ever clean up. Stickclip the first bolt, and have your belayer wear a helmet.

Adding to the appeal, however, is that it stays pretty shady in this alcove.

This route doesn't look like much from the ground, but the upper half is surprisingly fun with good movement.  It is a nice warm-up and is worth doing.

Begin with easy climbing for several bolts.  At mid-height, you are at the obvious slabby, smeary crux.  On the left side of the bolts at the crux, the route climbs at ~11a.  On the right side it feels a bit harder with slapping for slopers (hence the name) and is probably the reason it is rated 11c in the guide.  Its just a sport climb, so either way works.  Short but sweet.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Thindependence