A very exciting scramble to a minuscule summit.

Access a ledge which runs along the bottom of the face via an area of red rock on the east side of the peak.

Follow the right-hand chute (there's also a large Central Chute) stay left of the tower and aim for the crest of the ridge then follow it to the summit, there is a Class 4 step along the ridge.

Descend the route.

I recommend

Missing in the Minarets

if you're interested in the search for Walter Starr.

Starr's Route

Southeast Face

Southeast Face, Direct Start

Rock Route

I believe this to be the most frequently used start for the (sandbagged, imo) 5.8 SE Face Route. While there is a series of easier pitches that traverses in from the left via a series of ramps/ledges, this is a more aesthetic line with reportedly better climbing, more consistent with the difficulties you'll encounter higher up. Corner climbing with some minor overhangs, great jams, and awesome crimps!

The SuperTopo book lists the first pitch as being 5.9 and the second being 10a. I found them both to be pretty equal, and the consensus seems to be 5.9(+). I felt there were more difficult sections (by a grade) higher up on the route, though I admittedly may have gotten off route for a section. I'll stick with 10a here as this is what is listed in guidebooks and by Peter Croft, though the consensus will likely be 9/9+. In summary, if you're confident you can do the rest of the route clean and quickly, there is no reason to avoid the direct start.

I thought these two pitches were phenomenal, and some of the best on the route (though there were some incredible ones higher up as well).

On the first pitch you'll pass a rappel station on your right, you want to keep climbing, don't set up a belay here. I did stop here, thinking it was the end of the first, and with a 70m rope I really had to stretch it to get to the top of the 2nd pitch with some sizable runouts to conserve pro. The top of the 2nd pitch is very obvious as it's a ledge that tops a minor buttress. Traverse around to your (climber's) left to join the route.

Ironically, one of the Sierras greatest Alpine rock climbs isn't even on granite! But rather a steep, smooth rock with angular holds from more ancient times. Watch out for more loose rock than usual.

Start the climb up the lefthand gully, uphill from the base of the face. There may be a cairn.

P1-2 5.6. Make a long traverse right and slightly upwards then around onto the face proper.

P3-7 5.7. There's a shallow dihedral up high on the right side of the face; aim for it, but don't go too far right. Pitch 7 finishes with a tricky traverse to a hanging belay at the bottom of the shallow dihedral.

P8 5.8. Climb the shallow dihedral to an alcove.

P9 5.8. Left out of the alcove then wander across and up the white scar to a ledge just below the large summit dihedral.

P10 5.8. A short strenuous corner leads to a ledge at the bottom of the main dihedral.

P11-12 5.8. Two pitches up the summit dihedral lead to a notch.

P13 5.7. Traverse left on a large ledge then up the face to the summit ridge.

Scramble the ridge to the summit.

Scramble up slabs on the west side of Cecile Lake to the permanent ice fields below the east face. Work your way southwest through the ice fields to a ledge angling up and north to a distinct chute with solid class 3 rock heading up. After passing the gendarme on its north, cross over to the south side of the rib and continue up on mostly 3rd class rock with occasional 4th class climbing. Once on the ridgeline work your way around exposed class 2-3 rock to the crux of the route, a 4th class downclimb just before the summit. Keep to the west for less exposure on this move. Easy class 2-3 scramble up to the summit block from there.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Clyde Minaret