As Todd Skinner would have said, short and savage. Long pulls to good pockets. one-finger, two-finger, and undercling strength a must.

Leviathan

Jacqueline

Esteban

Deep Search

Unknown

Electric Jellyfish

Crayon Pony Fish

Hydrogen Psychosis

Obvious steep arete near the right end of the climbing. 4 bolts of full-on battle mode, requiring some funky techniques, won't be everyone's cup of tea but I find the movement fascinating. Start a little right, around the corner from the first bolt, to get established in the pocket above for the second clip. Then it's nebulousness up the arete to the finish.

If you're not quite ready for Deep Search, Jacqueline is a nice project post Esteban. Start doing Esteban to the rest, the head left across the vertical wall into the corner where you hit some decent side-pull pockets, then escape straight up, tip toeing through the bushes or dropping off.

Start at the low point of the Reef on a flat rock sit start that leads straight into some steep climbing. Follow things up and left for 120 or so feet to an easy summit scramble or the no hands corner, where you can contemplate going bigger.

Admitted there are some rules. Most feet are on but if there's a crack or something that separates the rock then they are off. I suppose this can change the grade/fun of this thing, but you'll still have to do the V4 crux regardless. This is an adventure.

By far the hardest section of the 200+ foot mega traverse, Deep Search starts at the no hands rest after Esteban and finishes up the crack right of Hydrogen Psychosis. I think Mike did a version of this way back when but it's much cleaner and less sharp now. Perhaps still be bit thin and sharp for some, it's excellent, sustained climbing.

Getting the first clip is the crux, the first few moves are the hardest on the route. Start at the bottom of the dihedral, follow up the right side of the bolts using plenty of right hand sidepulls and clip all of the draws left handed. Bring tape and wear pants if it's not too hot, the rock is sharp!

In the Ruckman guide, there are two unnamed routes, 10 and 11, that share an anchor. Both of these are silly as they start with boulder problems and quickly become easy 5th. The hangers had been stripped. Electric Jellyfish starts on the 5.11 boulder, then heads up the steep headwall to the anchors of November Sun. This is, for sure, one of the best routes at the crag.

The corner right of Leviathan and its super bouldery neighbor, has a three bolt line. Steep and juggy, for the Reef, anyway, it's a pretty decent warm-up. The first bolt is high but the ground is flat and you clip from a bucket.

Description

Routes in Reef