Originally started by Paul Muehl and Jim Black in '79 (up to 2nd bolt). Start in crack/flake on NNE corner. Follow diagonal seams up and left from corner then straight up to the notch. Crux provides an exciting technical challenge. Tastefully protected.

Fearless Bleeder

Bloody Direct

Standard Route

This route is a blast and has great exposure (maybe it is bacause it is over the asphalt parking lot or something).  The underclings are a cool and the rock is clean and solid.  Don't climb the route with a full parking lot (early am or pm are best). 

  Start on the North Side of the spire and work up the crack formed by the large block / flake and the main wall.  Belay on top of the block. 

  Move up to the obvious horizontal flake.  Undercling right placing gear and clipping fome fixed pins along the way.  The hardest part psychologically are the last moves off the flake and into the large chimney.  Move up high in the chimney and belay. 

  The next pitch is similar to the first except you are higher and more exposed.  Move back left along the horizontal flake underclinging and placing gear.  Work left to the crack that leads up and to the summit. 

  Rappel off the bolted station on the backside of the spire. 

  You need to pay attention to your rope line on this route as you can run into big rope drag with poor planning.  Don't try to climb all the way from the block to the top as I did the first time I did the route - Heinous rope drag!

The Bloody Spire is the Large Spire diagonally accross the parking lot from the Needles Eye.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Bloody Spire