Starts on the large chock stone hold in the back corner of the small cave. Climb through the overhang. The blocky overhang makes for really cool and intricate foot beta. Top out on the face directly above the start hold. More strange beta for the top-out.

 BETA SPOILER ALERT:

 All of these techniques can be used (in no particular order): Knee bar, bicycle, drop-knee bar + oppositional toe hook, drop-knee bar + heel hook... It's a really cool route!

Fancy Schmancy Direct

Come Clean

Fancy Schmancy

Starts on the large chock stone hold in the back corner of the small cave. Climb through the overhang. The blocky overhang makes for really cool and intricate foot beta. Top out left in the corner for the path of least resistance. 

  Best boulder problem at Sleeping Giant?

Starts sitting or crouching. Compresses straight up and over the south face of the boulder. Variation starts the same as Francy Schmancy and traverses into the crouch start.

This is 2 small cluster of pretty large boulders, off of the Blue Trail. It gets sun in the middle of the day because it is in a little depression between two broken cliff bands.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Fancy Schmancy