A bit of an odd route in terms of the bolt line, but quite good nonetheless. This line shares its start with

Heathen

, .11b, which goes to the right of the black streak. The climbing is initially quite casual and then gets rather pumpy through a bulge, with just a bit of desperation showing through after clearing the bulge.

Start directly below the dark waterstreak that doesn't reach to the ground. Climb up through four bolts that initially trend slightly right and then back left to the bulge at the bottom of the streak.

After the fifth bolt, head up and left (rather than right, which would put you on

Heathen

, .11b). After two more bolts, head rather sharply left through another two bolts to end up on the chains for

The Emancipation of Dissonance

.

Dry Ice

Beekeeper

Streak

Kingpin

Knezek's Call

Love Beads

The Emancipation of Dissonance

Heathen

Streak Right

This starts on top of a boulder, so looking over your right side you are already 20 feet off the ground. This is an exciting 11, move right out into dissonance and climb crimp cruxes.  The exposure is amazing.

A long, very fun route that keeps getting more and more pumpy, right until the end. Mostly big holds, with a few small ones thrown in to keep you on your toes.

Start up trending slightly leftward for three bolts, and then head more-or-less straight up. The angle of the line changes a couple of times through gentle bulges, so take advantage of any rests you can finagle.

Near the end your forearms will be wanting big holds; alas, they might be a bit disappointed.

A steep start on good, occasionally tricky holds through four bolts leads to easier breathing above. Next, a couple of intimidating bulges interspersed with a bit-less-than-vertical cobbles makes for an enjoyable, long journey upward.

A thought-provoking bit of climbing out of a scoop to the chains makes for an exciting finish.

There are midpoint anchors about 3/4 of the way up that you can use if you don't have a 70m rope. However, don't cheat yourself: go to the top anchors and use the midpoint anchors for lowering in two steps.

My favorite climb at Maple Canyon (so far).  This route never lets up, and blesses you with nearly every Maple Canyon feature imaginable.  A variety of techniques and a whole lot of endurance will get you to the top of the arete.

A fun line with two cruxy sections and two decent rests. Good holds, bad holds, crimps, and pockets are all to be had.

Start up through some good, occasionally slopey holds to a bulgy bit where the big, obvious holds suddenly vanish. After a cranker move or two through the bulge briefly easier ground awaits.

Climb through the following almost-roofy bit onto more-or-less vertical rock for a while, until another bulge appears with a dearth of obvious holds.  Figure it out and balance your way to the chains while wondering if the pump will catch up to you before you get there.

Two of the guides I had with me supplied conflicting information on this route (5.9+ vs. 5.10d).  It didn't take me long to figure out which was incorrect.  I was already tired from climbing all day and got so pumped that I lost count of my falls, and resorted to a french-free to make up for lost ground.  I ended up traversing to the arete to make it to the neighboring route's chains.  I'm sorry I can't provide more information than this for this route, but at least I can prevent aspiring 5.9 leaders from getting in way over their heads.  Scramble up the left side of the flake/boulder to the 2 belay chains.  Take the left bolt line.  Enjoy the dirty solution pockets!

Head up the same start as Dry Ice. After the first 6 bolts just after the first roof/bulge, instead of veering left continue in the black streak straight up. This is a great route on excellent quality rock with distinct cruxes at the two bulges.

Climb the Streak for 4 bolts then head right. Very dirty and chossy. Ignore the guide book this is a bad route that is not cleaning up.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Pictograph Wall