A fun route with poor protection!Locate a wide flake on north toe of the left most formation in the Youbet Jorasses massif. Make delicate moves up into the wide flake, grovel your way to the top of the flake and make more delicate out right to an old bolt. From the bolt follow the path of least resistance to summit. There is no anchor so good luck.

Fanfare for the Common Man

Foreplay

Birth Control

Nutcracker Suite

Inner Course

Follow the bolt line just right of Birth Control.  Typical Needles runouts... however the bolts are just where you need them.  Nice moves to shared anchors with Inner Course.

Great moves... with two possible cruxes.  First crux coming before the first bolt... and second crux at the top of the "dyke".  This route can be quite intimidating... but the moves are all there.

This line leads to a two bolt chained anchor on the NW corner of the formation.  Some great face moves lead to an airy traverse to the right.  Follow the rib, through the face above to a two bolt chained anchor.  The short, unprotected face above leads to the Inner Course anchors.  It is my suggestion to omit this pitch.

After passing through the damp tunnel take a left and walk up the trail until you encounter a private road and residence. Take the trail just before the residence that heads off to your right. As the trail descends take the 3rd turnoff to your right. This is a very popular climb and you can usually see others climbing Inner Course or the 5.8 climb called Foreplay, which goes up a water wash immediately to your right once you enter the narrow cleft between the Youbet Jorasses and Outer Outlet formations. Just a bit further up from Foreplay a very large boulder blocks the trail. This is the start of the climb and the belayer should stay below it but the leader must scramble to the top of the boulder where he or she will encounter the first bolt on this impressive looking line. There are 7 bolts to clip and the route proceeds to the left as you proceed higher. A sling can be placed on the 5th bolt to reduce rope drag and just above the last bolt there is a nice horn, which you should sling with a double runner. Then you need to traverse up and to the right where you'll see the bolt anchors. You need 2 ropes for the rappel.

Youbet Jorasses is one of the two large formations nested in between the Inner and Outer Outlets.  This is the western formation, and Vertigo View is the eastern.  A few very high quality bolted routes are on the north side including Foreplay and Inner Course.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Youbet Jorasses