Starts on the right side of the ledge. climb up past 2 bolts on easy slab to a horizontal. climb past 3 bolts to a rest ledge before the crux.Clip the bolt and grab a flake by your stomach and get high feet and make a reach for a good right hand sloper. Its not as far as it looks. Gain the ledge and then its easy 5.4 climbing to the top.

It's Not What It Seems

Lost Canadian

Three Brushes

Rumble in the Jungle

New Blood

Anniversary

Tree Keys

Retread

Toulouse

Steppin Out

Old Crow

Lost and Found

As Easy as Instant Pudding Pie (pitch 2)

Cornered

Yellowjacket

Incontinent Dog

Relapped

Kitty Litter Pillar

Old Dogs

The Wabi Sabi Way

Gaggle of Geese

The Life of Riley

Autumn Tears

As Easy as Instant Pudding Pie

Silent Treatment

Around the Corner

Put My Foot Where?

Cold Feet

Autumn Tears (pitch 2)

High Steppin`

Wabi Sabi West

The Badlands

Daddy's Got New Shoes

A nice and closely bolted moderate sport climb. Start on the elevated ledge, clip the low first bolt from the ground, and climb a few thin moves to get up the slab, heading toward a small roof up and left. Continue past the roof on the right or left (I went right, but left looked reasonable also), and on to easier ground to a 2 bolt anchor up and left. 

  It helps to tram in while cleaning, as it is mostly left-trending.

Climb the chimney like area between the pillar and main wall and continue up the corner to the top.

Pitch 1: Climb the left facing corner with a birch tree. Continue up the arete to a ledge and a juniper bush (5.8, 60').

Pitch 2: Climb easy cracks and continue easy dirty slab until headwall (5.5, 40').

Pitch 3: Start on rock pillar at left end side of ledge. Climb through four bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (5.10a, 60').

New Blood is the project formerly known as Ain't Nothing in the Handren guide.  

  This route climbs the arete just left of Around the Corner.  

  Climb the unprotected 5.8 slab to a horizontal/crack with good gear. Pull the overlap and place a pink tricam in a slot in the flake. Make the crux moves up the thin seam and arete past two bolts. Finish at a bolt anchor on the ledge. 

  The start is often wet, but can be avoided by climbing the slab to the left past to bolts to a horizontal. Traverse right to the crack.

Start on the left side of the ledge by a good size flake. Climb the slab to the right of the flake past two bolts to just under a nose. Climb out right of the nose untill your feet are even with the bottom of the nose then clip a bolt then step out onto it. Climb up esay slab to the top. You can all so pull strait onto the nose at a little bit of a harder grade. The route says trad in the guide book but you can do it as sport if you run it out a bit.

Find the tree close to the cliff with a key embedded in the trunk near eye level, on the cliffside of the tree. The keyring has broken off of the key (and it is sometimes replaced) so you may need to look hard for it.  

  The route ascends a dark brown slab starting from the tree. Climb the lower slab to the blocky 4th class ledge, then climb the outside corner hanging overhead. The route touches both faces of the outside corner. A routefinding extravaganza!

Nice route on the far right. Climb slabby terrain passing a bolt to a ledge with a tree. Optionally sling the tree. Then continue the slab passing another bolt to head wall. Pass another two bolts to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. It's a little easier going right of the bolts and more interesting left of them. You can complement with some gear, but should be fine without if you are comfortable at the grade.

 Descent: 60 meter rope barely get you down to the start

Climb the slab left of the left facing corner to a bolt which is just to the right of a small overhang. Climb past the bolt to a diagonal trending crack/overlap that takes small cams. Continue past another bolt and head left (about 15) up the gully. There is a good cam placement on the left under a boulder. Make strenuous face moves on good holds up the black wall to the center of the roof above.Follow weakness to the left. A good cam placement (#2 or #3) protects the moves out over the roof. 

Note: Though it looks tempting to escape out right to avoid the roof, the rock is of poor quality and is not to be trusted.

Start at the tree that is wedged against the cliff, and climb up the blocky slab to the horizontal flakes. Gain the headwall and make balance moves to the anchors.

Bouldery moves up to the first bolt then follow a quartzite dyke to a large flake (#2 Camalot). Make tricky moves over the next bulge to a rest at mid height. Continue trending right on a steep ramp to the crux moves up and over the final headwall. Small cams are helpful after pulling over the final bulge. Finish up the slab on nice holds to a two bolt anchor. 90' 

Climb corner/crack on gear and fun moves. Then continue up the flatiron/buttress on the left side, to ledge. This part is shared with ""Let Them Eat Cake". Stop at ledge and belay at 2 bolt anchor (of "Retread") or continue up until tree anchor of "Cakewalk".

Direct variation:  From anchor it goes at 5.10 with an enjoyable upper section. There are a couple bolt heads at the crux (without hangers).

Descent: From 2-bolt anchor, 60m rope just reaches bottom.

 (Wrote up as separate route as the first pitch is a nice easy 5.4 sport. The second pitch was added a few years later.)

Pitch 1: Climb the corner-crack passing some clocks at the top before reaching a ledge and belay tree (50').

Pitch 2: Continue up dirty slab, then a shallow right facing corner and easier slab to a large crack below an overlap (60'). (Can easily be combined but you won't be able to see each other)

 Descent: 30m rappel from tree

Starts by climbing a "mini-butress" about 15' high to a pointed top, where you can clip the first bolt. The base of the "mini-butress" is about 10-15 ft of high-angle dirt-and-rock scrambling, so prudence might suggest one trad piece. Climb up past another two bolts, clip the third bolt and make some balance moves on a flake.Then clip the fourth and final bolt and pull the bulge on more balance move to an easy short slab with no pro to the anchors.

Climb wall following bolts and through a short slab. Continue to headwall. Surmount it with some hard moves to a slab and 2 bolt anchor.

Climb the steep slab passing four bolts to lower angle terrain and overlap.. Continue up using bolt and then pass another bolt. Continue short easier slab to a second overlap and to a 2 bolt anchor.

	Pitch 1: Climb easily but cautiously at the start of a steep buttress (good gear placements can be found behind the flakes to the left). continue up to the top of the buttress (either slinging the pillar or opting for a large cam placement on the right) to the start of a beautiful and obvious black streak with impeccable face climbing. One bolt protects the crux moves near the top!		 

Climb small inside corners to a ledge and continue up the face to the top using a finger crack and other holds.

Climb the slab to the top and a tree belay.

Pitch 1: Climb slab to right facing overlap. Pass it on the right and clip a bolt. Continue over the headwall and corner to tree ledge (5.9, 50').

Pitch 2: Cimb toe of rock. Veer left and back right and over a small roof. Pass a small slab and over a small nose to a tree belay. (5.6, 60').

Climb up the face to first bolt, optionally placing a nut on the way. It's easier going on the right and then traverse left to the first bolt. Then passing two more bolts straight up. Now the terrain gets easier and more slabby but without any more protection until the head wall. A 2 bolt anchor is set rather high so an extra move or two is requires to reach it.

 Second pitch is 5.9 trad and described separately.

Climb up past 3 bolts to a 2 bolt ring anchors, the name says it all.

Climb the face, passing two bolts, to a 2 bolt anchor (shared with Three Brushes).

The route consists of a slab to a nicely featured face and then finishes up a steep corner. Dave Penny discovered the route when he bailed right around a corner from a 5.12 project. Under heavy lichen he found nicely featured rock, which he used to climb up and retrieve his top rope anchor. 

      Pitch 1: Step up on nice rock to clip the first bolt. Step onto the ledge and lay the crack back to the right (protected by cams). When the crack ends, step left onto the face with nicely featured rock protected by bolts. Surmount the face onto a ledge. Follow the corner up past three bolts ( crux) to join the last bolt and anchor on Tree Keys.

Fun slightly over hanging route with a thin crux bulge, Start on big holds heading slightly left past 4 bolts to a nice rest before the crux. Clip the final bolt and crimp yourself over the bulge.

A gear protected variation to Anniversary.   

  Climb the flake just left of Anniversary, pull the roof and join Anniversary at it's last bolt. 

  Easier 5.10 if you pull the roof left trending, harder 5.10 if you pull it straight on. 

  The crux gear is extremely marginal.  Could improve with traffic.

Climb straight up the head wall passing two bolts. Continue using some gear to rope anchor at tree.

Descent: 60m should reach the bottom

 (Wrote up as separate route as the first pitch is a nice 5.6 sport that should not be overlooked. The second pitch was added a couple of weeks later.)

Slabby face left of a left-facing corner, past a tree-ledge to a two bolt anchor.

Climb the mossy wall to a ledge with two small trees. Veer left and continue up the slab and pass a right facing flake. Up the shallow corner to less steep terrain to a tree belay.

Climb the steppy face up to the headwall. Pass it on the right side and back left. Continue up via some maples to the top and belay tree.

Climb the mossy start for 30' and continue over a "cleaner" face to a bolt. Clip it and climb through the overlaps to a 2 bolt anchor.

The Geriatric Wall has mostly one pitch routes on it. Not a bad place to go if you want to knock out like 8 to 10 pitches of moderate climbing in one day. Do not go when it hot out because the swamp makes this place unbelievably muggy....I found out the hard way. 

  [ NOTE: There's a "Quick Topo" of the area posted on the main Humphrey's page. R.Hall ]

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in 1. The Geriatric Walls