Friction dependent and super skin friendly compared to mostly everything else on the hill top. Stand start with the left hand high on a glassy hueco dish, and right hand undercling down and right. Pull on with a left toe and get a right hand/ heel match on the low hueco. Crank on the heel and release the right hand to another dish up and right. From here set up and go for broke on a desperate move to a jug. So sick.

Lizard Therapy

One Second

The Handcuff Manual

Shock Therapy

Chaps

Lounge Lizards

Good unique full body tension climbing on incredibly sharp, painful and broken holds... Kind of good though!

Sit start under the bulge with a good left hand hueco and a hueco out right for the other hand. Pull on and move up to some flat edges with hard core tension and tough foot moves before finally being able to reach better holds off of high feet. Finish up left or up and right at about the same grade.

Crimpy, slopey, friction and micro-beta dependent with a nails hard topout. Sit-start matched on a low crimp rail. Pull-on a make a hard first move up to a small slopey crimp for the left hand. Execute a hard foot sequence before giving it the mustard and locking-off all the way up to the sloping lip. Match the lip and somehow figure out how not to chuff!

Sit or lay down start on some very low jug incuts. There is also a good undercling in a hueco under the small roof which is useful. Pull onto the wall and move up t incuts before doing a long reach from good crimps to bad slopers. Once on the slopers, stay close to the wall and get a couple high steps for a slopey top out.

Stand start on some thin sloper crimps. Pull onto the wall and make a few long and hard reaches to increasingly better holds before topping out. Good smooth rock.

The crimp testpiece of the area! Huge moves to good crimps followed by a sick dyno to a meathook on the lip. What else could you ask for in a route?

Sit start way underneath the boulder inside a huge hueco. Pull on and crank on a huge drop knee and make a long reach to a good crimper. Match and then make a big move up to a "Fred-Nicole crimp". Execute a hard foot swap and get a far left toe before doing another deadpoint, bump to the better hold and set up for the fun finale.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Shock Therapy Boulder