Nerd Magnet is the furthest left route on Waterfall Wall.  The climb starts just to the left of the overhanging bouldering spots.

Nerd Magnet

Highway 60

Nasty Sally

Black Hole

Big Horn

Beginner's Route

Crazy Sally

Waterfall

The Chimney

Barite

Little Red Wall

Diamond Clutch

Just left of the chimney, one of the only leadable routes on this wall.  Follow 3 bolts up the steep face to the 2 bolt anchor.  Don't step back on the wall behind you.

Just right of the nose of the Waterfall Wall (or just left of Barite), Nasty Sally climbs easy ground to a tricky crimpy section passing a bulge.  More easier climbing in a shallow corner above. 

  This felt inobvious and awkward for the grade.

Black Hole is located about 7 feet right of the chimney, it's the climb just right of Little Red Wall.  This is one of the easier routes on this wall.

Big Horn is the climb just right of Diamond Clutch.  Climb over the overhang with the "big horn" to the face climb on the left.

The rightmost anchor on Waterfall Wall is above this featured climb right of the (almost always dry) black-streaked "waterfall". 

  As the name suggests, this is a good first rock climb, with many features, holds, and variations.   

  Soloing up/down this route is also faster than walking around to set up/remove anchors on this cliff.

Look for the bolt on the prow right of The Chimney.  Climb at approximately this line (which is just left of Diamond Clutch). 

  After a few moves to get going, the crux is 2 reachy moves past a 2' roof on the prow.  Continue up the fun prow/arete above.   Good climb, for the wall.

Somewhat blocky climb on typical Socorro rhyolite. Some old bolts without hangers or cutoff.  Looked like opportunities for trad protection placement very limited.

Flaring chimney with easy moves.  A good easy chimney for the beginner.  Start below the chimney with a little stemming and some easy jugs. Wedge your self against the left face and up you go.  A nice seat to rest or take pics from about half way up.

Barite is the rightmost climb that has a bolt visible on the route.  This is one of the best of the easier climbs on the cliff, but some might find the Hueco Wall climbs to be easier than this one (as those are less sustained). 

  Steep climbing with a lot to choose from the whole way, as you pull with sidepulls/liebacks to gain a shallow corner up high.  You'll pass cool-looking white barium sulfate (barite) crystals in a vertical vein on the way. 

  With only one bolt with a hanger currently present, leading is discouraged.

The red face just right of The Chimney. 

  This is a fun thin face problem.  Very small edges, maybe painful, and sustained, especially at the thin crux 10' before the top.  Stay true to the line and don't use holds for the Chimney to the left, or those for the shallow corner system to the right (Black Hole) to keep it at the 5.11 grade. 

Diamond Clutch is the toprope problem following the black streak 15' right of The Chimney route.  This is a pretty good beginner route, but some might find the Hueco Wall climbs to be easier than this one, as those are less sustained. 

  Start a little to the right of the black streak, angle left initially, then stay left of the streak.  Like many on the Waterfall Wall, it's steep for the grade and the holds never quite feel positive, though there are many to choose from.

Sunny most of the day.  Often has local climbers.  This is a good beginning wall directly near the parking area.  The rock is rhyolite, and is strong but occasionally sharp.  It gets very hot in the sun since it is dark red to black.

Description

Protection

Routes in Waterfall Wall