P1 - 5-6 bolts, starts near a large pine located on a ledge behind/above you. Traverse in from L to first bolt. 2nd bolt is at a scoop/ledge. It is 5.10 from this bolt to past the 3rd. This can be bypassed by climbing left up the corner, then traversing in to the 4th bolt. Continue up past one more bolt to a flake/crack feature (gear), then past one or two more bolts to the belay. (5.8, ~190')

P2 - 4 bolts, high first bolt, traverse left after 3rd (5.8, 110')

P3 - 5 bolts, step left from belay, then follow bolts up, then right - crux pitch, steeper, more sustained, but tighter bolting (2nd bolt is not easily seen from belay ledge). Head up and right to a block in the corner to find a single bolt belay (w/ quicklink, backed up with cams) (5.8, 80')

P4 - ? continue up/next to corner via Rosemary's Baby (we rappelled from P3)

Number of the Beast

Crack of Cerberus

The Devil Worshipper

Zool

The Mephisto Waltz

Rosemarys Baby

P1: 4 bolts, fixed pin, and a couple cams/nuts in between - you can traverse in from the L or do a direct start at similar grade (5.8) ~50m

P2: 3 button heads to a crappy bolted rap anchor (can be backed up with cams) - not recommended, only 30m also

Descent: rap route, 2x ropes

An obvious left facing corner between a couple bolted lines.

P1 (5.8,115’) Short cruxy sections around small roofs and vegetated/dirty cracks protect well. End at a bolted belay with rap rings.

P2 (5.8, 160’) The pitch begins with a roof that can be passed either on the right or with an undercling traverse left. Some crumbly rock in the roof so nice to have a #3 C4 for protection or similar sized cam with an extended sling. Bigger than that would fit further along the roof, but perfectly safe with just a #3. Above this you have the option of going into a lose easy 5th class corner or possibly better linking with 2nd pitch of the bolted climb climbers right called The Devil Worshipper (5.9, 3 bolts).

Descend by walking off climbers left and finding the path of least resistance down a leaf covered hillside or rap off a tree to the pitch 1 anchors. Likely would require at least 70m rope, but have not done this myself.

Crux at first couple bolts, or do the Beelzebub Variation (5.9) start to the right. Takes a #1, .2-.3 behind/in a flake I wouldn't want to fall on.

Easy runout sections higher up, not a sustained route, but fun.

Double rope rap to descend.

Fun climbing, great rock quality on the dome.

10 bolts, one was a leeper, others were solid. Slight run on big knob to first clip, not bad though.

Rap with 2 ropes.

We did this climb in 4 pitches.  Sorry I don't remember grades or pitch lengths.  Kind of guessing from memory so any corrections in the comments are welcome.

Pitch 1 - Head up a widish crack to a nice gear belay. 5.6

Pitch 2 - Continue heading up and as the crack thins move right to a right facing crack.  Build a gear hanging belay or extend it down 10 ft to stand on a nice ledge.  5.6

Pitch 3 - Head up to a right facing corner as it thins down to micro nut.  Kind of hard to protect.  Move left to nice dishes to a two bolt belay at a nice stance.  5.8

Pitch 4 - Slab climb up to a bolt and then continue up the left facing dihedral.  2 bolt belay.  5.7

4th class to the top if you like.  We did and then just down climbed back to the anchors.

4 double rope rappels on bolt anchors down the slab face will bring you to the ground.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Demon Dome