A great lead for a beginning tradster. This is a really good route for the grade. It climbs large dihedral with a perfect hand and finger crack up to two bolts on the right face of the dihedral. I have been told that one can exit left out the roof but I am pretty sure this is rarely done. 

  FA around 1984 by Bob Branscomb, Kristi Stouffer, Jack Kay and Linda Hall.

Bat Crack

The Diving Board

Block Party

Phlogistomat

Mr. Flexible

Lorraine

Mud Crack

Fire Down Below

Nut Up

Spiral Stairs

Nurse Ratchet

Blister in the Sun

Arthritis

Deep Impact

Mt. Berry

Get a Grip

Pin Ball

Phoups

Hang 'em Higher or Throwin' Fire

Trix

Face the Facts

Moving to Manhatten

Dawg Daze

Blue Suede Shoes

Johnny's Got a Gun

Geophagy

Eaten Alive

Eighteen Wheeler

Shagadelic Groove

Triple Threat

Phish Food

Hard Grit 12b

Summertime Arete

Cruisin' to a Bruisin'

Mark's Route

By Hook or by Crook

Chicken Pox

Blockhead

Final Exam

Initiation

Snapped it Off

Eekwinocks

Captain Winkie

Spring Cling

Hospital Corner

Fish for the Future

Face Lift

Triple Arthrodesis

The Last Dance

Stemulation

Jack and Jill

Crack Atowa

Freddys Dead

Mirage a' Trois

M.T.P.

Cornered

Plumber Boy

Spring Fever

Gome Boy

Split Decision

Geophysical

Gidrah

Something Else

Black out

Cassidy's Crack

Funny Trumpets Arete

A Few Tense Moments

On My Face

Ticked

Twister

Pod of God

Epiphany roof

Gran Delusion

Digital Delight

Skinny Hippie

Mountain Ears Route

Puppets Without Strings

Rally Race

Oot and Aboot

Snack Time for Kea

Iron Cross

Johnny Nowhere

Sfinks Crack

Van Golden Brown

Welcome to Spring Mountain

Special Delivery

Welcome to Spring Mountain (Direct Start)

Longtime Coming

Oregon Yosemite

Clavical Crack

Beginner's Route

Mantle with Care

Spider

The Final Shred

Chubby Hubby

Hawaiian Slab

Worth the Walk

Lively Up Yourself

Face climb on slab above large roof 15 ft right of By Hook or by Crook. Just left of Bat Crack. Above the third bolt it is possible to traverse left to double cold shut anchors for "unnamed" or to anchors for By Hook or by Crook. Exterminailer continues up and right above roof past 4 more clips (and moss) to rap hangers near the top.

Exterminailer

First pitch - Climb the crack and face to the belay for Welcome to Spring Mountain.    Second pitch - Climb the steep off-width to the top of the cliff.

Climb through the big scary, detached block (it's solid) and move out onto the finger crack in the face right of Freddy's Dead.

Climbs face with small overhang 10 ft. right of Phoups. Shares chains with Phoups.

Face 4 ft. right and around corner from The Final Shred. Crack on right and arete on left are off-route for 11b rating.  

Fun, sustained route that follows a broken crack with lots of pockets.  One of the best bolt routes at Spring Mountain and a classic 'warm-up'.

A short finger cranking route with a bolt protecting the crux.  The route follows a discontinuos finger crack that trends left around a small flake and straight up to a rounded layback .  Though the crux is probably 11+, placing gear off the sustained finger locks before it bump the grade.  It is far easier to place a couple pieces at the little flake and then gun for the bolt, but the finger lock section also accepts perfect stopper placements if you got the lock strength.

Thin crack system in face right of Puppets Without Strings. When cracks end midway up face, move right and follow bolts to anchors for Johnny Nowhere.

Stem up outside edge of chimney system directly above Cassidy's Crack.

Slab to overhanging rounded arete. From atop the bulge, step left after the overhang. When leading, do not clip the bolt on the RIGHT after the bulge (this is a directional for top-roping). Do clip the bolt on the LEFT just above the roof, then run out (#3 cam optional here) to the next bolt.

Steep arete with lime green lichen near center of second talus field. Crux is on a blank slab 2 bolts below the anchors.  

A tricky sequence a couple moves up will make you wish you placed a couple good pieces right off the ground, well-named route as the locks are a bit "strenuous".

Climb a ledgy face to a steep pull past a giant chockstone. Stem and/or chimney up a corner with two wide cracks clipping bolts on the face to the left. Make a delicate traverse move onto the face to the left of the corner and up to a good ledge. Finish with an airy step out to the right to reach the anchors.

This line heads straight up the face above and right of Mountain Ears Route.

Sustained 5.10+ climbing leads to good rest on a small ledge before an awkward dyno off a two finger pocket to a good jug by the final bolt. This route is far more interesting if you only stem off the opposite wall to the first bolt. (Shares anchors with Spring Fever)

Finger crack in shallow right facing dihedral at head of 2nd talus field. Lieback up a nice flake above dihedral and then traverse right past an awkward bulge to chain anchors 50 ft. up. #3.5 friend protects the traverse.

Clip first two bolts of Freddy's Dead and head up and right on steep thin face. Can also be climbed by clipping first two bolts on Doc Holiday then branching off to the left.

Left slanting hand/finger crack 8 ft. right of Epiphany. Ends on same ledge system as Epiphany. There are no anchors but it is possible to traverse right to the Epiphany anchors.

Climbs a gentler section of the same slab as Mirage a' Trois starting about 8 feet farther right. Crux is getting to the first clip.

Pull a strenuous overhanging block and then undercling your way up and left (sketchy feet) to the finish

This fun little crack climbs a left facing dihedral to a small roof. Pull the roof and get established on a ledge, then climb a really nice hand crack in a pod to another small roof. Step right at this roof and tackle another nice but short crack to reach the chains. The crux was the first roof although the final crack is not a gimme either.

Starts at large flake near big ponderosa pine. Takes line just to the right of Wanderer.  

Face climb 10 ft right of Stemulation. Lower section climbs past 7 bolts to anchors and is considerably harder if you avoid the arete on the right side. Continue through roof above first belay past 3 more bolts to chains.

Climbs slabby face to steep finish 20 ft. right of Blue Suede Shoes.

Takes left side of overhanging arete to slab 4 ft. right of Dog Show.

Climb crack in right-facing corner 10 ft. right of Phlogistomat.

Shares first 4 bolts with Noble Slabbage. Climb the slab staying just left of the wide crack. From the Noble Slabbage anchor ledge, step up and right onto a steep face with prominent flake. Continue up past 8 bolts to anchors near the top of the cliff.

Starts on steep crimpy face 10 ft right of Eaten Alive. Stick clipping first bolt is a good idea. Route continues straight up alternating between slabs and gently overhanging faces.

Climbs right side of steep arete past big chimney 30' right of Doc Holiday.

Right side of arete 5 ft. right of Johnny Nowhere. Finish at rap hangers on ledge half-way up or keep climbing to reach another set of rap hangers after 5 more bolts "Endless Summer".

The direct start takes off just to the right of Rally Race and climbs a short overhanging section with 4 bolts.  The climb continues up and left via a crack system to 1st set of anchors.  Head up and right of first anchors for the extension and 3 more bolts.  Upper section was dirty/loose but recently cleaned and new anchors installed.  Rock is fairly soft at the top of the cliff, thus the bolts. 

  An easier variation is to start on Geophysical then move left once past the overhang.

Climb the crack just right of Triple Threat. Ends on ledge with double cold shuts. 

Gently overhanging face right of Face the Crook.

Features 3 10d cruxes. Seldom climbed, upper part is dirty.

Climb the crack between Johnny's Got a Gun and Betaflash. Ends at chains for Betaflash.

This route climbs a steep face just left of large crack system that hosts The Last Dance.  

This is a short route in the south talus field. Some fun climbing leads to a good rest and a really fun crux throw.

Runout mossy and slabby face right of Feat Petite

Thin steep face climbing on outside of large detached buttress. Can be finished directly (about 5.10b) via two bolts through overhang.

Awesome stemming and jamming up steep corner. Ends after 60 ft. at chain anchors left of crack.

Wide crack right of Spider. Rarely climbed, somewhat dirty.

Steep face 10 ft. right of Iron Cross. The 5.11b grade applies only to a line straight up the bolts. Using the corner and crack system on the left lowers the grade to about 5.10c.

Climb ledgy face left of crack in dihedral to rap hangers (5.5). Stop here or crank through a steep lieback and fist crack (5.9) to ledge with rap hangers. Variation: (Dirty Dancing, trad, 5.7) - Traverse left at the lower anchors to upper crack of Red and climb through a short steep bulge to reach the anchors for Fab Slab.

Stem and chimney up the wide crack system, step right across the chimney to a ledge system then scamper up a beautiful exposed arete, moving left briefly two bolts from the top. Need a 60 m rope to lower from top anchors.  

Crack in corner right of Oot and Aboot. After 50 feet, the crack deteriorates, so step right to double cold shut anchors.

Difficulty varies between 10a (right side start) and 10c (left side start).

First crack right of Betaflash. Jam the delightful handcrack, surmount the large flake (it's solid), and continue past some quick-clip anchors to a delightful bolt-protected chimney. Feel free to bail out at the first anchors if you are intimidated by the chimney.  

Follows right side of steep arete around the corner from Chubby Hubby. Horizontal pockets lead to knobs and a small roof. Finish via crack on right = 11b, via face on left =12a.

Climb the steep, apparently well-featured slab just past the wide dirty crack right of Nurse Ratchet. Most of those nice looking holds vanish into thin air on close approach.

Climb the crack in the corner right of Gidrah via strenuous fist jams and surmount the obvious flake and roof on the right using the huge holds provided. Continue straight up to the top of the cliff clipping 4 bolts on the steep knobby face of the upper section of The Final Shred.

Stem up the arete/dihedral 10 ' right of Something Else. After 45 ft. and 6 bolts (5.7), stop at chains on a big ledge or continue straight up over big blocks past two more bolts to a fun crack system in a dihedral (gear, 1-4"). Ends at chains just below the top.

Face climb on south corner of large detached buttress just around the corner from Phish Food.

Route climbs the obvious arete at the edge of a large detached buttress.

Very short steep face. Stick clip first bolt. Crux is getting the 2nd clip. Arete on right is off-route.

Dihedral above anchors for Hawaiian Slab. Creative stemming and power crimping permits a traverse left under overhang to anchors above a good ledge.

A really fun but somewhat dirty crack that ascends the main wall. The crux was a really fun fist crack in a dihedral that turned OW on me, I believe that this is where it gets geophysical. the route then finishes up a dirty hand crack in a dihedral. Good stuff.

Just like Godzilla's foe by the same name, this beast has three "heads". Begin in the dihedral right of Summertime Arete. Stick clip first bolt and climb the face (5.10a) or use the crack (5.7). After the 6th or 7th bolt there are three ways to finish. For the middle or right head, down climb a bit and unclip the last bolt on the "torso" after you clip the first bolt on the "neck" to prevent rope drag. Left head (5.10b, 11 bolts): Continue straight up on a slab on the left side of the crack/chimney system and crimp up a steep rounded arete to a ledge with cold shuts. Middle head (5.9, 15 bolts): From friction slab above ledge, step right across a wide dirt-filled crack and climb a steep but juggy face to chain anchors at the top of the cliff. Right head: (5.9, 15 bolts) From ledge with chains for Summertime Arete step right across crack to steep knobby face. Climb straight up to chains at the top of the cliff.

Climb steep face 20 ft. right of Trix using sharp arete on right. Pull into dihedral and stem up to a good ledge with chains 45 ft. up. Stop here or scramble up and left on some easy ground to more fun climbing on an exposed slab. Climb ends at chains near the top of the cliff.  

Some fun moves up to a gently, overhanging black streak. bear down an push through this to reach the chains.

Wide crack leading to flaring slot with large chockstone just right of unnamed 12b.

Slabby arete 20 ft. right of Hawaiian Slab.

A tricky boulder-problem start leads to thin face climbing above. The final moves surmount an exciting blocky overhang. The route is moderate 5.10 if the right arete is utilized for the middle portion (above the third bolt). A few more "tense moments" can be had by eschewing the arete and climbing straight up the thin crimpy face (5.11). This route is unusual for Spring Mountain in that it is easy to set up for a top-rope from above (without leading).

Climb the first part of Van Golden Brown until it is possible to exit right to a thin crack about 20 ft. up. Follow the thin crack straight up (somewhat difficult to protect) to the ledge with anchors for Lorraine.

Starts in shallow flared dihedral 20 ft. right of Chicken Pox. Pull through short steep bulge to sloping ledge with anchors.

Definitely lives up to it's name.  Original anchors gone, move up and right at top to anchors for Eekwinocks

This is a fun little crack route that shares an anchor with Rally Racer. I think this is a great lead for someone starting out on trad as it protects very well. The pod is a pretty fun feature and the crux seemed to be coming out of the pod. Single pitch with bolted anchors.

A fun little roof problem in the amphitheater. It takes an easy line up to a roof with good holds. I couldn't make it look pretty (just thug away)but it was still a fun climb.

Jam and lieback steep thin crack to the "Womb of Doom" below large chockstones. Stem out, around, and over chockstones to bouldery ledge with rap anchor belay.

Steep thin crack right of Stemulation. Shares double cold shut anchor with Stemulation.

Interesting and longish route. The crux is an ackward lay-back/ stem over the left side of dog show. I know many climbers who struggle with the ackward crux, but I found it fun.

Scramble up ledges, crank over a bulge (crux) and then cruise a ledgy face with good protection to a tunnel-like exit beneath a large chockstone. Good route for beginning traditional lead climber.  

Steep face immediately right of Hospital Corner.

Just right of the Pod of God climb steep face to prominent flake. The flake leads many to confuse this route with "flaked out"

Prominent arete 5 feet right of Chopper. Five bolts lead to rap hangers at obvious ledge (Oot). Continue past 10 more bolts to chains near the top of the cliff (Aboot).  

Clip the anchors for Wanderer and continue straight up into a dihedral with fun liebacking (5.9). Clip the rap hangers and come down from underneath the big roof or make a sketchy traverse right past two bolts to reach another crack/dihedral system. Follow a tips crack straight up (soft rock and small gear) and then move right underneath another bulge (crux) staying to the right of a wider crack. Beware of rope drag after the roof. You'll need a 60 meter rope to top-rope.

Start near crack 10 ft. right of Blue-tailed Skink. Cross crack between 1st and 2nd bolts and climb face just left of crack to large ledge with Blue-Tailed Skink anchors. Scramble up more ledges, clipping two bolts, until large handholds allow an exciting move right onto a slabby face. Climb this fun face to a corner with large blocks below an overhang. A series of exciting "iron cross" moves left and out around the overhang establishes you on a final short face just below the anchors. This is a long, fun climb with lots of bolts. 20 to be exact.

Left side of arete 10 ft. right of Nut Up.

Crack 5 ft. right of Flaked Out. Exit left 60 ft. up to double cold shuts.

Crack system right of Steppin' Out. Bail out at rap hangers after 60' as upper part of crack has not been cleaned.

Climb reachy crimpy face right of Fab Slab past 3 bolts to crack. Climb crack straight up through bulge to Fab Slab anchors.

Face climb right of Lively Up Yourself. Wander left and back right, then pull through a small overhang.

Start up Mt. Berry and cut left and follow bolts on steep face climbing.  Has good crimps & ledges and exposed boulder problem at chains. Grade is given to stay on face entire way up.  If you use crack on left, stem, etc. then it is 5.11.

Begins under the overhang below and left of the regular route and climbs past three bolts. Might want to stick clip the first bolt.

Steep thin crack between Arthritis and Hospital Corner. Climb largely on face, protecting in crack.

Climbs steep corner on right side of chimney system right of Gran Delusion.

Crack in corner right of Eaten Alive. Dirty. Finishes at Eaten Alive anchors.

Low angle slab.It is easy to set a top-rope by walking around to the left. Great climb for kids or anyone getting their first taste of outdoor climbing.

Climb a blunt arete with a strenuous mantle to an overhang surmounted with another difficult mantle. The slab above is equally challenging.

Starts on slabby face right of The Diving Board, and continues up steep headwall above.

On outside face of butress 6 ft. right of M.T.P. Climb steep thin face past six clips to rap hangers on ledge (5.10d). Quit here or move left and continue past 6 more bolts to anchors near the top of the cliff (5.10b). 12 bolts, intermediate and top anchors.

Great climbing up a steep face and arete.  Difficulty ticks up as you go up.

Bolted slab just right of Aloha Direct (with which it shares an anchor).

The last route on the cliff. This one lives up to its name if you enjoy steep rock with big holds. Start at the same place as Clean Sweep and climb straight up a system of fractures and blocks (they're solid) to a ledge. A few tricky slab moves get you to the top of the route.

A mostly vertical crack that rangers from thin fingers to fists.  Short and mostly vertical with abundant features on the face as well.  Crux is low.  A short but fun climb that stays in the shade till late afternoon.

A surprising number of good routes spring out of the timber at this cragging area in NE Oregon.  There is a nice variety of sport and trad climbs anywhere from 5.4 to 5.13 on fairly solid andesite.  Most of the climbs are about a half pitch in length but there are a few multi-pitch routes that top out.   

  The crag is nestled in the Blue Mountains and has an excellent vista of the nearby mountains including Mount Emily that overlooks the nearby Grande Ronde Valley.  Large talus fields line the base of the crag and create an area for lazy belayers and bystanders to soak in the sun.  The relatively high elevation and ability to find shady areas makes this an ideal summer crag for those hanging out in Eastern Oregon.  Most people wait till the snow melts (usually April) to venture up the gravel roads.   

  These days the crag gets fairly crowded on the weekends with an influx of climbers from Walla Walla and Portland but usually climbers can still get a secluded feel by skipping the first talus field.

Short slabby face a few feet right of Bat Crack.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Spring Mountain