Great hands to finger crack through a roof.

Road to No Where

My Way or the Ha Way

Dave's Route

Five Easy Pieces

Snake Ladder

Pigs in Mud

Chubby Hubby

Chunky Monkey

Bavarian Tower

Hanabata

Crystallized

Stop Making Sense

Buddha Boy

When Cattle Talk

The 2nd from left most route at the Far Side. Climb steep rock through interspersed bolts and gear placements. Beautiful orange granite.

Climb to the 3rd bolt of Chubby Hubby, then move up and left following the thin left arching cracks (small cam) to join Chunky Monkey's upper half.  Avoids the cruxes of both routes to create a moderate link up.

A hard mixed line to the left of Chunky Monkey, passing 2 bolts and some good gear placements before joining Chunky Monkey and continuing to the anchor.

Blocky start leads to face and left side of wide crack dihedral. Cruxes passing bolts 3 and 6. Quartz chicken heads above bolt 8.

Fun big moves low to balancey traversey fare towards the top

Start 20' left of the Bavarian Tower, up a steep wall to a clean right facing corner. Fire this crux and you can lower off the the two ring anchor on the ledge at 40 feet. Better yet, clip the anchor with a runner and continue up the unique left facing corner to a wild arete and anchor at 35 meter. The hangers for this route and extension are Fixe, painted Grey.  Clip 1 unpainted bolt from the Bavarian Tower (which climbs right) after the first set on anchors(runner also advised)

12a to first anchor. 10d to second anchor. Linking Recommended

Sprint through the edges on the steep golden shield and then relax as the terrain mellows up to the anchor. Second pitch is still an unequipped project.

An under appreciated classic. A great adventure over four varied pitches of crack and face climbing.

This is a short 5.9 trad route on the far right (east) end of the Far Side crag and is a nice little trad warmup that allows you to toprope "Buddha Boy" (5.10c pg13) after leading this one to the anchors, or vice versa of course.  It's a worthwhile climb, and is actually quite enjoyable.

Start the climb by surmounting a ledge a few feet above head height that puts you in a corner beneath a bulge.  Jam and stem through the bulge (fun moves), then jam the rest of the way to the anchor.

Climb past 2 bolts to gain a interesting crack on good rock.

Finger crack in a short right facing corner (gear and bolt) leads to a sloping ledge. Clip a another bolt and launch into the boulder problem crux. Head up and right to steep crack moves, another bolt and bomber gear to lower off anchor.

This one involves thin crack and face climbing.  Short but fun and challenging.  The rock does feel a bit loose in many spots, so be conscious of how you pull on these holds.

Face climb to a ledge, pull the roof/bulge, then jam to the anchors.

Can be toproped after leading "Hanabata" to its left.

This is a fun little warmup just left of Snake Ladder. Climb up to a large flake then move up and right (crux) before stepping back left and continuing to a lower-off.

Description

Protection

Routes in Bavarian Wall and The Far Side