Grab your hand jammies and helmet! Not since "Demon Wizard Bat" has there been such a futuristic linkup of American Fork choss. Probably the easiest way to climb the entirety of The Black Magic Cave, this hodgepodge of a climb starts on True Lies (12d) then climbs Helix (12-) backwards and downward toward the lip of the cave before finishing on Hexed (13a). While the route doesn’t seem to have any stopper moves, the redpoint crux seems to be the long sequence linking into and surmounting the lip with the pump. Be aware this route requires long slings, some runouts on easier terrain and the use of a spooky chalk stone. Not for everyone, but quite a fun challenge for the right rock weirdo. Make sure to brush up on your crack skills and cave tricks for this silly circus route.

Designer Babies

Distraction

Chalk On The Trigger

Helix

Problem Child

Voodoo

Helixor

Orogeny Extension

True Lies

Tulsa

Needles and Pins

Climb Interrupted

Kronk

Helix direct

Ouija

The Price Is Right

Fatal Discharge

Hexed

Lock and Load

Simian

Orogeny

Stay on the Porch

Black Magic

A mysterious route that starts in the back of the cave.

Same start as Stay On The Porch; at the third bolt head left, and climb a few bolts before rejoining anchors with Stay On The Porch.  Shares anchors with that route.

Trend up and slightly left past the crux boulder problem; then slabs out and then back right; steep again for 2nd redpoint crux (12a) Chalk up your itchy trigger finger for the final slab moves!

all info pulled from here:

rockclimbing.com/routes/Nor…

If I were to list off a handful of the top middle 5.12 sport routes I've ever done, the list would probably start out something like this:- Rifle's "Pretty Hate Machine"- Cal Dome's "Ginsu"- VRG's "Mentor"- Cave Rock's "Fire in the Hole"- AF's "Helix"

Strong enough endorsement?

Anyway, if you find the Black Magic cave, you can't miss Helix.It starts on the left side of the cave and spirals up into a hole.Great fun!

This route starts back downhill (East) of the Cave proper.  I believe it is the farthest left route on the wall...though things have become pretty gridded out (sigh) in this section of the cliff.Pass a bolt or two and make a cool span into a left facing corner under a roof, then make a difficult move to establish yourself above the roof.  Good and restful pockets leads to a hard finish.  Bouldery and on good, black rock, this route climbs like it belongs at the Hideaway...and probably is a touch soft for the grade, which is rare for any of Jeff's route.

A do not miss route for AF.

Start on Helix. At the top of the flake break right and finish on Ouija.

Start on Orogeny and climb through the crux of Orogeny, at the headwall (6th bolt) split left and climb a really cool face with slightly harder moves than the headwall for Orogeny. This version adds a slightly harder and funner finish to Orogeny! The book calls this line a project, so I'm not sure who the FA is.

Starts at the very back of the cave, near a good size ledge.  Near horizontal climbing to a set of anchors near the end of Helix

Simian's little brother.  Still not to be trifled with.

Some rough slab climbing to a strange bulge above.  Shares anchors with simian.

Not sure who put this up; rumoured to be called "Needles and Pins" Like many early AF routes this one's still cleaning up. Should be 11A when it does. Can feel much harder if you don't find the sequence (or clean holds). Take a brush....

Starts off with some stemming in a corner, which leads to a fun crux with some descent exposure. Good rest after the crux, then follows a crack to the chains.

Stick clip 1st bolt and begin the boulder problem to get established up Left then back right to reach slab , proceed upwards to a big ledge; take a snack, drink some water and prepare to be INTERRUPTED at bolt #7

all info pulled from here:

rockclimbing.com/routes/Nor…

Excellent quality rock with some exciting movement.

A slightly balancy start with big holds leads to a slight ledge. After the ledge comes a tricky dihedral that requires stemming, liebacking, and perseverance. Don't forget to try a finger lock.

The top of the dihedral is a bit strenuous; shortly after, however, comes a respite. After the break, start up a slabby bit on rounded footholds. Either go a little and surmount a bit of a roof, or stay right for a few tenuous, balancy moves.

Continue up and right a bit and cruise to the anchors.

Start on Ouija for 3 bolts. Finish on Helix.

starts left of helix on the vertical slab. Technical climbing over a tricky buldge (1st crux). Stand up, get a shake, then start the steep climbing up the flake on helix. Once at the top of the flake break right clipping two more bolts before the final crux guarding the chains.

Shares a start with Problem Child.  Climb the first four bolts, then cut right and head to the anchors of Distraction.

Starts just to the right of helix. A few bolts up a sequential slab get you to the steep stuff. Power into some undercling pockets. Grab some awesome tufas. Get creative with the crux finish. Oh and don't be scared of a little bat guano.

Start on Helix. After the 6th bolt break left, into some upside down climbing through some pods. Pull out the the lip of the cave and finish up a tricky, exposed slab.

Pumpy pulls through the roof lead to continual nontrivial travel above the lip of the cave. Purposely primal pulls lead to at a mid-crux and do not count the chicken until it is hatched. A final redpoint move may be in order. If this is 12c then it is SOLID for the grade. Feel free to uprate.

all info pulled from here:

rockclimbing.com/routes/Nor…

Others may disagree, but I think this route is classic. The slab start is awesome, even though you're pissed every time you have to climb it (at least I was). It's hard. After the slab, you get a decent rest before climbing through a pretty difficult boulder problem out the steepest part of the roof. Another little rest helps you recover before finishing up on insecure holds. Brilliant. This is the one route that haunts me for not redpointing before moving away....

Overhanging climbing leads to good stone above, one of the better routes on the wall.

A thin, perplexing start leads to some tenuous moves trending up and left to the third bolt.

From the third bolt head more-or-less straight up through an overhanging section with some good holds, and some-not-so-good holds. Getting up and past the fourth bolt is probably the crux; it requires some body-positioning trickery, and a bit of faith that holds are coming (it feels a wee bit exposed).

After the last bolt is a concentration-inducing runout to the chains.

The first sport route in

American Fork Canyon

.

Pockets to slopers on solid, dark limestone.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Black Magic