Climb up to the first small roof and pull up into the short left facing corner above. Go up the short corner and try and find a way to rest below the next roof about midway up the route. The 1st crux (maybe 11b/c) involves pulling up into the corner above the first roof. Next, pull the second roof using fantastic sloper side pulls; the second roof is the harder of the two cruxes (11c). Following the roof, continue up and then slightly left on great, juggy rock to a third and final roof.

Pull the final roof (5.10) to get to the anchors. Done this way, you are merging into the route immediately to the left; your other option is to merge right into the finish of 'Malice in Chains' which has slightly easier climbing. Going to the roof on the left is nice because it sustains a higher level of climbing for longer.

Similar in nature to 'Malice in Chains' directly to the right, but the initial face climbing is harder. Great route.

Mutilated Corpses

Fatal Attraction

Psycho II

Skullduggery

Tar Babies

Indecent Exposure

A Florida Man...

Car Jacker

Cubic Zarconia

Verbal Abuse

Gator Bait

The Coroner

Diamond

Black Rain

Verbal Lighting

Phallucy

Temporary Insanity

Overkill

Jumbolia

Kyle's Face

Disturbing the Priest

Mandatory Suicide

The Guillotine Direct

Drinkin' White Lightning

India Ink

Huntin' Gator

Slander

Riddler

Cajun Hell

Physical Evidence

Malice in Chains

Another squeeze job at the Cove. Probably a Dano route, but I will investigate and update with proper FA information when possible.

Short, but very steep route with massive jugs. Easy for the grade if proficient with the art of kneebaring. Ignore the stray bolt out right that is level with the 4th bolt and stay left on the very prow of the overhang for easier way to get up the route.

'Just go straight out the sweet roof at the top of that gently overhanging wall. Clip first roof bolt from a stance below the roof.' -Dgriff

'I would if I could climb a full number grade harder'-me

The lowest climb on the ledge that cuts diagonally up and left across Mayhem Cove, Scullduggery ascends numerous overhaning blocks with many hand-to-fist-sized cracks between them.

Head up through the mini roof and onto the face.  A couple of tricky sequencing leads to a double crack and chains.  Very well protected.

This route is located on the face of the lower section of Mayhem Cove, which is the first section of rock you will get to taking the main path.

It starts on the second line of bolts from the right, and where the climb hits a bulge about 20 feet off the ground, you continue up the line of bolts that go straight up, instead of out over the bulge. The climb over the bulge is called Overkill (5.11c).

Climb the tough sustained face to a convoluted rest at the left side of the bulge, then continue up through chimney-esque moves to the top.

A fun route.

Climb the rightmost line of bolts on the lower section of Mayhem Cove.

Being the only existing 5.9 in Mayhem Cove, this is a great warmup, A tricky interesting move gets you up over the bulge about 20 feet up. Climbing after the first bulge is pretty straighforward, but well worth the climb. This route is pretty pumpy for a 5.9.

It's a fairly long ways to the first bolt, but the climbing up to this point is very easy, so I didn't give it an "s" rating.

This climb is the rightmost of three 5.10's on the right-hand section of Mayhem Cove. The start is located where an alternate trail leads down away from the wall into the talus below.

The climbing begins with a crack feature and the first crux is encountered near the first bolt. Surmount a steep bulge with great holds, and then the angle of route backs off for a few bolts. The 2nd crux is a height dependent move to get over a roof. Vertically challenged folks may also have a hard time clipping the bolt that protects this move. Probably .10b if you're 6' 5", and .10d if you're 5' 5"

3rd route from left, bolts and fixed nut, finish at the same anchor as Huntin Gators

from Carville's book, "after the 4th bolt of Cajun Hell traverse right, climb two bolts and finish on Tar Babies

Technical start leads to a menacing and awkward corner, followed by an awkward and powerful crux on the exit.  Interesting, yet well-protected lay backing leads to the anchors.

Diamond is the second route moving right from the diagonal ramp that splits the upper and lower portion of Mayhem Cove.

The climbing involves pulling short overhangs for first 30 feet, then becomes less steep. Each overhang is followed by a reasonable resting spot, so despite its impressive length, it isn't really an endurance challenge.

I recall that Carville's guide fails to mention that there are anchors up top, and in fact there are.

The farthest left line, bouldery start out of the cave, linking up and right finishing same as Cajun Hell/Drinking White Lightning

do verbal abuse into drinking white lightning

To the left of the diamond.  It is right at the base of the large ramp that heads up left to harder routes.

Start at some large blocky terrain.  It's safer to come in from the left if leading, but a direct start is possible.  Follow some blocks for about 5 bolts through a few powerful moves with good pro.  Then surmount an overhanging bulge and finally there are a few smooth ramps with face climbing.

This route has it's own anchors and it's easy to reach Diamond's anchors as well.

SuperTopo lists this route as "Cubic Zarconia" with a different FA.  Use the "Improve This Page" feature if you definitely know the right answer...

The line squeezed in just left of DWI shares some holds through the lower portion and has some interesting features of it's own higher on the wall.

same start as DWI but go right out the roof to the arete / prow

excellent upper section

2nd route from the left, traverse blocky features right through the cave, linking up and finishing same as Cajun Hell/Drinking White Lightning

Climb up the main face from the Huntin' Gators anchor.

short roof with a chain draw

brief crux section leads to mellow upper half

The second pitch of Huntin' Gator that becomes Cajun Hell if you do not take the rest at the chains.

Fairly continuous climbing from the anchor of

Huntin' Gator

up along the left trending seam. Keep your eyes open for holds out left early on then holds to the right of the seam up higher.

Long draw on the first bolt.

Back clean the first 3 draws on Huntin' Gator to aleviate rope drag.

I'm posting this just to alert anyone interested in trying this route that the first 2 bolts are missing. The only sane way of getting on this is by pre-clipping the first bolt on rap from a neighboring route then climbing in from the left past the first bolt of "Fatal Attraction", which can be ignored since it won't keep you from decking. Might be possible to climb straight up, but it was mossy and wet even in September of the driest year on record.

The short crux of the route is pulling past the closely spaced 1st and 2nd bolts. A couple of left knee bars is the only reasonable way to do it. Short and vicious!

Huntin' Gator is the first pitch of the infamous test piece

Cajun Hell

. Take the class 4 scramble up the long diagonal ramp cutting leftward up Mayhem Cove. It begins within the cave as the second route from the right and fourth from the left although the bolted lines for the other routes are sporadic at best. 7 bolts lead to a 2 bolt hanging belay anchor system on the headwall. Find the fixed bolt on the ramp for the belay person. The second through fourth bolts have fixed chains so you'll know you're on the right route. Through the first four bolts you're treated to wildly overhanging powerful moves rightward out to the overhanging face.  The next 2 bolts offer big holds and a chance to catch your breath, but the technical redpoint crux awaits as you move up and left towards the anchors.

If you continue up and left past the anchors following the diagonal seam along the overhanging headwall, this is

Drinkin' White Lightning

, the 5.12c second half of

Cajun Hell

.

do Verbal Abuse into Tar Babies, very unclear on this one, please help!

Riddler is the second bolted climb on the diagnol ledge cutting up and left across the left half of Mayhem Cove.As mentioned above, the first bolt is a long way off the ground, but it is pretty easy to reach (though hard to spot)unless your ~5.8 or shorter.  In this case its a scary-as-hell clip!From there, pull the roof, continue on some overhanging, and occasionally dirty, climbing until you reach a left-facing block.  After pulling the block the climbing all-of-the-sudden turns slabby, runout and mossy.  While the overhanging section of the climb kicked ass, this mossy section seemed to be a completely different climb and the source of a lot of rope drag... i honestly didn't finish it.

The crux lies in linkage, so depending on beta and fitness the crux is anywhere in the top half.

Great position and length, beautiful natural line.

Bad rope drag if you do not back clean the first 3 draws on Huntin' Gator.

Needs long draw on first bolt after Huntin' Gator's anchor.

3 bolt route on the far left. Currently it's missing an anchor and best to be avoided.

Begin with very enjoyable technical face climbing on incut edges to a decent rest. Following the rest stance, climb the crux bulge using underclings, gastons, and sloper side pulls. The crux is followed by really fun jug climbing for 30 feet. This is a really nice route; well bolted and longer than the 11- routes to the right. My only complaint would be that you can clip bolts for routes on your right and left at one point.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Mayhem Cove