Thin edges, steep smears and delicate movement is the name of the game with this route that may be getting harder over time as some of the edges exfoliate. Two stars out of five.

* Originally done with six bolts and a smattering of gear, this route was re-bolted and the extra bolts added with the permission of the FA party to result in a fun and well-protected sport climb.

Buford's House of Liver

Self-Driving Car

High Strung

Autopilot

Animal Magnetism

Robotic Surgery

Rice Cake Roof

On the left side of the main Foolproof Tower buttress is an obvious chimney in a left-facing corner. This is the line of the climb. Near the top, move left under a chockstone and up its left side.

This climb takes the striking crack on the left side of the formation's east face and is a definite must do for the grade.

The start is a somewhat bouldery move into a thin crack that slowly widens throughout the length of the climb. Those not well-versed in wider cracks may desire something larger than suggested to protect the upper section. The climb ends on a nice ledge with anchors which give quick and easy access back to your pack.

Continuous and varied, this splitter is one that should be on your list of climbs to do at the grade - you won't be dissapointed.

This climbs the face to the left of the main Foolproof Tower buttress and to the left of

Self-Driving Car

. Start about ten feet left of the

Self-Driving Car

chimney at some ledges. Climb up and slightly left to some black knobs, then up the face to a horizontal. Move left and climb scoops to the summit.

Climb a bulge past a fixed pin, then thin face past 3 bolts. It gets progressively easier but is a bit runout up to the crack at the top.

Start about 35 feet left of

Autopilot

and 45 feet left of

Self-Driving Car

at an obvious crack in a right-facing corner. Climb the crack/corner about 40 feet to lower-angled terrain. Follow the crack up and right to a ledge. Climb the short off-width above, then continue up the easy right-leaning crack to the summit.

The east face of Foolproof Tower is capped by a roof which is split by several crack systems; this takes the left-hand crack over the largest section of roof.

Start on High Strung and climb to about the midway point then cut right and follow a low-angled ramp/corner system until under the roof. Lauch out the roof using good jams to a crux lip encounter high above the desert floor. Descend by circling around to rap anchors atop High Strung.

Although the crux is brief the moves and the setting make this a climb to seek out if climbing at the grade. Those seeking a more sustained route should climb the face route right of High Strung (Animal Magnestism, 5.11a) which leads more or less directly to the upper crack.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Foolproof Tower