This is a fun climb, and one of the best 5.10's at the crag. Walk uphill to the right to find a large right-facing corner.

The crux is a thin section down low which is easier than it looks and takes good pro. It is sometimes wet in the spring. After the crux, continue liebacking up the corner to a bolted anchor on a ledge. You just barely lower down with one 70m rope.

Chow Chow Chow

Stay Lady Stay Back

Sober Up

Agricultural Manuvers in the Dark

Conquest of the Stud Monkey

[Redacted]

Loggerhead Ledge Route

Log Jam

Hammerhead

Lagerhead

Drunk Tank

Sorry Poopsie

Orange Juice Avenue

Le Nocturne

Material Girl

Edge-u-cator

Swillar Pillar

Simian Sex

Happy's Favorite

Goodhead

Sink Like A Stone

Here on the Inside

Sow Sow Sow

This is probably the best climb at Loggerhead. A bit dirty in spots, but the quality of climbing and sustained challenges more than make up for that. Full-value 5.11a.

From Sow Sow Sow, leave the base of the cliff and follow cairns up the talus for 100 ft then cut back left to the base of the wall at a major corner system. Here on the Inside starts up this corner (same start as Chow Chow Chow), then cuts left under a roof at 25 ft. You then climb up through a some mungy rock to get into a beautiful and continuous corner. Follow this for quite a ways, passing one piton, and finally lieback out an dirty overhang to mantel onto a ledge on the right. Climb a bit further up easy hand and fist cracks to a pedestal with a bolted anchor.

Make two rappels with one 70m rope to get down.

Start the same as Sow Sow Sow, but 10 ft up traverse right across the face to gain a crack system near the arete. Cool climbing utilizing both the crack and face holds on the arete leads to one bolt after the crack ends. Then a bit more face climbing finishes to bolted anchor on a ledge.

The rock is a bit gritty, but the fun moves and excellent position make it totally worth doing.

Sober Up climbs the slab to the right of

Swillar Pillar

before crossing through that route to join Drunk Tank at the very end. Start the same as for Swillar Pillar, but move off right to clip a very high first bolt (5.9 R/X moves before the bolt). Then climb up past an undercling to a second bolt. From here take a discontinuous crack which angles up and left to briefly join Swillar Pillar. At the roof, pull directly over to a vertical seam and clip a final bolt before moving up and left on fragile holds to finish on Drunk Tank.

This climb can be toproped after leading Swillar Pillar. Given the current condition of the bolts (old 3/8") combined with the already serious nature of the climbing, it's probably not a bad idea to just take the TR ride.

This is the dirty crack system which starts just a little down and left of Le Nocturne. The route starts just below a big rotting fallen tree trunk. You have a choice of two cracks to start: a squeeze chimney on the left, or a slot with thinner cracks on the right. Climb through a big oak tree and then up more dirty cracks. Near then end, make a traverse (5.8) up and right to a bolted anchor just above a pine.

Would be worth a star if it were clean.

Begin in a low-angle fist crack beneath a large block with a tree growing out of it. Reach a small ledge and climb the right side of the block. A few moves punctuated by solid stances lead to a crack switch. Step right into a water groove. Protection is available at the base of the water groove and then disappears for the next 20+ feet. Climb to a stance at a small ledge and size up the first opportunity for gear that's just out of reach. Make the move and continue through nice edges and a mantel that guards the anchors.

Sport climb to the right of Orange Juice Avenue. Belay under the climb, and begin by scrambling up a boulder to the right, then reach around left to clip the first bolt. Follow bolts on the face and arete to the anchor. There is a pumpy section down by the 3rd bolt, then another crux near the top. Pretty good rock with interesting features, but a bit dirty.

This climb can be done in two pitches but three is recommended.

Pitch 1) Climb a groove 5.6 with good pro 50ft. to a tree on a ledge.

Pitch 2) Jam cracks, finger locks, and chicken wings 5.7 take you 110ft to a large ledge with a tree directly below a dark chimney.

Pitch 3) Proceed into chimney and grovel your way up until a chockstone blocks your progress.  Stem out of the chimney and pull yourself over the chockstone 5.4.  Gain the Loggerhead Ledge. 80ft.

This is one of the better ledges in the Valley.  Hang out, eat lunch, and make two raps with one 70m rope:  From the chains on the east edge of the ledge rap once to the top of Simian Sex, then make one more 35m rap.  With one 70m rope, you will need to downclimb easy rock for about 5ft. to reach the ground.

This is a worthwhile climb that can be easily toproped (with 2 ropes) after leading

Simian Sex

. Start the same as Simian Sex but then traverse left into the adjacent crack system. Climb up until the crack becomes a thin flake and then nothing. Reach left and clip a bolt and then crimp your way across small edges (11b) to join the Loggerhead Ledge Route for a short section. Instead of following the chimney cut back right into another crack that leads up to the anchors on Simian Sex.

Located to the left of a hanging block. Climbs up a corner for a ways then through a steeper section of orange rock to join the anchor of Lagerhead. Hardest moves above the second bolt.

A good climb located downhill and left of the Loggerhead Ledge Route. Begin on a blunt arete with two bolts, then climb up the right side of a hanging block. Clip one more bolt at the top of the corner then climb up and left into a trough which leads to an anchor (shared with Hammerhead). Really nice rock quality and cool moves on this one.

This is the left side of the

Swillar Pillar

. Climb a left facing corner with interesting stemming moves. Pass one bolt (old 3/8") on your way to a ledge below an overhang. A steep flare cuts through the overhang directly above the top of the corner. Getting your body wedged into the bottomless flare is the crux and is protected by a bolt (also an old 3/8", and possibly a reachy clip for short people). Scum your way up the rest of the groove to a ledge with a bolted anchor shared with Swillar Pillar.

This can be toproped after leading Swillar Pillar.

This is the clean finger crack that splits the face to the right of Edge-u-cator. Make an awkward start past a couple bulges to reach the start of the finger crack. The crack peters out at the top and there is a 5.8 move getting established on the lower angle slab above. Traverse left to a horizontal and then make a couple mantles to reach the bolted anchors. Would probably be a bit scary up top for a 5.8 leader.

This is a good climb on good quality rock. It tends to be one of the last climbs to dry out after a rainy day.

This climb is mostly hand jams but takes all sizes of pro.  The jams are awkward but solid, and good for warming up on if you plan to climb some of the harder lines in the area.

Thin face climb to the right of Lycra Virgin.  The first bolt is high for a sport climb, but the moves are relatively easy and on good holds. More easy climbing to the second bolt. The crux comes after bolt 3, moving up and left into a subtle corner. More hard climbing up the seam to a good horizontal crack just below the roof. Then climb up to another thin horizontal and make a fingertip traverse right to the Goodhead anchor.

Would be better if the climbing didn't rely so heavily on small, sharp, and fragile features that might exfoliate. The crux seemed hard for the grade, possibly because some stuff has already broken.  This can be toproped after leading the much easier Goodhead.

A bold lead or easily toproped after climbing

Sorry Poopsie

or

Conquest of the Stud Monkey

.

Follow a seam that angles up to the right. Good TCU's protect the first crux (11a) as you pull around to the right side of the arete. Clip a bolt and climb up a small shallow groove leading up to another thin crux (11c). Above is a small overlap which must be passed on the right side of the arete (11b). After that the climb eases, especially if you're on toprope. For the lead, however, you will need to keep a cool head as you make some scary 5.10 moves about 15 feet out from a bolt.

From

Le Nocturne

follow the base around to the right and uphill for a couple hundred feet. Then traverse back left onto a ledge with a big pine tree. Swillar Pillar climbs the right side of the semi-detached pillar of rock that starts off this ledge. It is *not* the more prominent spire which is located much higher up the cliff and directly above this route.

The climb begins several feet to the right of the actual pillar. Climb shelves and flakes leading up and left to a high bolt (5.7 R). Some micro cams and wires provide a glimmer of hope, but don't count on any gear actually holding a fall. From the bolt, climb the right side of the pillar and wander through a couple ledges. At the roof, hand traverse to the right to reach a small pine tree. Scramble up the gully and mantle onto the ledge back left with a bolted anchor.

A 60m rope should get you down. The lead bolt and anchor are newly replaced and bomber.

This is a hard finger crack with a bolt protected crux.  The climbing is sustained and demands your attention all the way to the two bolt anchor.  High quality granite, a must do for the .10d lovers!

Super dirty right-facing corner. Located to the left of Sow Sow Sow. There's a wide section in the middle that sounds pretty hollow. Not recommended. Rappel from a tree to get down.

Begin on the same ledge as Hammerhead, but climb up and left to a ledge below a corner. Protect the moves to the first bolt with a #1 Camalot. Stem and contort your way up the corner, then pull over a small roof on big jugs.

The rock is sort of flakey from lack of traffic. Anchor bolts need either fresh webbing or chains/rings.

This is a fun and varied climb that goes from slab to overhang. There is a bit of grit in some spots due to a lack of ascents, but it should clean up nicely with more traffic. It also currently has a single anchor bolt with a carabiner to lower off of.

At the toe of the buttress, just to the right of Orange Juice Avenue is a prominent arching roof. There is a crack/seam in the center of this roof and Sink Like A Stone follows the bolted line straight up to this point.

The bottom third of the route is an 11b/c slab on darker rock. The middle third transitions onto the gold headwall and is defined by a pair of zig-zagging hand traverses and mantles. Shake out before launching into the final section of the route - a gently overhanging crack and face. A piece (around 1-2") is useful for plugging in the crack between two of the bolts. Fight the pump to the single bolt anchor.

This is a nice varied crack climb near the right end of Loggerhead Buttress. The crack system is easily identified with an alcove with a broken oak tree near the bottom. From the alcove there are two variations. We took the right variation which I believe is named "Brown Eyed Girl" (5.9), and follows enjoyable hand jams and easy offwidthing up double cracks and a groove. The left variation begins with some difficult and poorly protected stemming moves getting out of the alcove and then ascends a chimney. This is supposedly 5.9 as well. Both these variations converge at a bolted anchor at the top of the pitch.

The second pitch starts with a thinning splitter. Once it pinches down, step left to a fist crack and follow it past an old bolted anchor to arrive at an alcove. Out of the alcove is the crux offwidth. I squeezed a #6 Camalot in near the start and then walked my #5 with me, but having two #5's would have been much more useful. At the top of the offwidth scramble up and right to a bolted anchor.

Rappel the route to descend. One 70m works fine, a 60m might be stretching it so be careful. The rappel stations both have one older 3/8" bolt, and one new one that is bomber. It is also possible to link this into one long pitch if you properly extend your pieces, however you will need to bring extra 2-3" gear and make sure to save a 4.5" cam for the crux OW near the top.

Description

Protection

Routes in 2. Loggerhead Buttress