sustained tech nasty climbing with a nice rest in the middle to take a peak at the final crux going to the anchor.

Skitzoid

Manic Panic

The Depression

Batty

Loonie

Electro Chalk Therapy

Psycho Beta Buckdown

Nut Hut

Turrets Arete

Koo Koo's Nest

Mono Maniac

Dopey

Bi Puller

License 2 ILL

Straight Jacket

Lunatic

Koo Koo's Rest

Chalkdust Torture

Crazy Train

Shockingly fun movement on stone so good that it will make you want to bang your head against the wall.  

  Be sure to sack up and chalk up! This route to good mental health will throw you one wickedly fun hard move after another.

This is the left variation off 'The Depression'(11d) that climbs through the roof and nice looking headwall.   

  Start up the easy slab past the first 4 bolts of 'The Depression', stand up high into the obvious horizontal and you can clip the first bolt of MP. (Left, not right) Pull an interesting crux through the bulge and continue past 2 more bolts of steep side pulling and crimping.  

not in Cronins guidebook

Work this crazy thang! Get past the tricky slab at the start to a weird horizontal crack system to a face that underclings, sidepulls and steps up with huge yet precise footwork into, you guessed it, a depression in the rock face that requires serious strength along with some creative hands and feet to get out of.

This one will drive you bonkers! Batty is the line right in the middle of the slabby, black wall left of the main pains in the asses that provide the longer thrills and chills at The Asylum. 

  Be prepared to handle some very small holds on a black slab that is much steeper than it looks. The beginning five ten climber will be introduced to one pad monos, finger cutting crimps, and teeny-weenie-freaky features that are both slopey and positive. Curse all you want, the holds don't get better until after the last bolt.  

  Staying on this thing is a bitch. You'll need crazy core strength as you creep up one crank at a time. Many a local has been frustrated by the start, middle and end of this short ass-kicking route. If the word 'sandbagged' comes to mind don't worry or fret...this route is stiff for the grade.

A shorter route with a punch to the nuts real early in the slabby adventure that it forces down your throat. Not quite a five eleven but NOT an easy climb by any means!

 Starts on jugs and trends right on small holds. Grab a ticklish mono-ish pocket and start scraping your way a steep slab on crazy crimps and puny pockets. Climbing eases off about three fourths of the way up and ends on big jugs again. Expect a crazy good time if you don't blow a gasket.

Straight up the white and black face for 4 bolts then cut up and right across the crack and follow the bolt line to the chains. Sustained climbing with a good rest in the middle, the real business comes before the chains.

Need a crazy little warm up or cool down climb?  Need a climb to help you get your pride and/or confidence back after a hard day of going nuts from getting your ass handed to you by hard routes? Look no further than this strange face climb that literally ends with a roof over your head. 

  Neat, slabby face climbing with small holds when you want the challenge and big holds when you really need them. 

  All the loonies in the bin will agree that the climbing starts off fair to midland and gets progressively harder the higher you get.  

  A great climb for the crazy-ass beginning leader, who really wants to take the inevitable ride (just as long as its not too close to the deck) since the crux near the top...I think. 

  Let's face it. We all won't get exactly what we want in life. If you're the kind of person who wanted to end up like Ward Cleaver, but instead ended up a ward of the state, then you should really get on this climb. It will do ya some good if it helps ya win back your confidence with its challenging face moves with a thinker finish...if you havn't totally lost it by then. 

  Or who knows, this might just be the five ten that drives ya right over the edge.

This route has jugs that require you to manhandle both sides of the arete.Slap and heal-hook your way up to a roof. Triangular, pyramidal crimps lead to face moves and more uncontrollable urges to scream and suffer.

Koo Koo's Nest starts on a neat flake system and works its way up into some fun ass 5.10 territory for about five bolts. For those who only want a warm-up or a 5.10b challenge there are anchors after the fifth bolt.

 For those who want a beat down, there is the rest of this insane climb. Crimp your way to the sixth bolt, clip and take a nice, long Koo Koo's rest. Be sure to get it ALL back before you COMMIT YOURSELF to the remaining cruxes of this ass kicking endeavor. GET IT?! COMMIT YOURSELF?! This climbing lingo is perfect for this Asylum theme!

 On a positive note, the route ends with a raving lunatic of a roof pull that will probably leave you madder than a one legged waitress at IHOP because you'll be more pumped than...well, you get the idea.

 Get on this climb! It's insanely fun! Just remember to get the redpoint, you might have to go up and down more than a whore's drawers.

Hard climbing using razor crimps and small pockets past the first 4 bolts with no real rest.     Moderate, but fun climbing will take you to a little pocket move going to the anchor.

This is the undocumented line of 4 bolts between 'Lethal Prescrimption' and 'Mono Maniac' All very similar in grade and quality. 

  Climb up a short flake before entering a bulge with hard moves off small crimps and tweaker monos. Make sure your monos are feeling strong for this one.    Once through the business, finish up on either of its neighbors... If you choose LP be prepared for another move of fitness at the anchor.

Starts on a crazy crack and works its way through pockets and small ledges. Layback like a lunatic on a small jug and go for the crazy crimpers. Catch something with a high foot and clear the crux. Jugs to the top if you don't end up flailing like a loony toon. Insanely fun!

Pocket pulls to a nice crux mid route using sharp sidepulls and bad feet. Finish up with some fun moderate climbing.

Starts out with steep feet and good holds up to the crux at the 3rd bolt. Powerful crux on a under cling/ side pull and stacked two finger pocket then followed by a little exit move that isn't too bad if you get your sequence dialed. Then there is finally a nice rest in some juggy flake side pulls. Enjoy really good 5.11 climbing on black rock with a little move going to the anchor. 4 stars!! Nice route Coin 

  Project in Cronins guide

Fun climbing following a flake to the anchors

If you're the type of climber who hates crimps...this route will have you pulling your hair out from crimper madness.

 Every freaking hold is a crimp...and sometimes when you send, the bugs crawl around in your skull!

 The freakin' layback moves even require crimps and crimpy holds that tear your tendons from the bone. I can see the worms moving under my skin!

 Seriously though, pocket pulling puds are only going to get so far on this crazy-crimpy 5.11a.

engaging climbing on slopers through the bottom, trust the feet. some techy climbing going to the anchor on vertical rock.

Don't loose your mind trying to onsight anything here...you won't. The Asylum offers routes that are quite atypical for Spearfish Canyon. The climbs are highly technical and require a sort of inner strength and imagination that most normal people do not posses.

 The bottom line is prepare to be sandbagged and frustrated. But keep trying! What do you have to lose besides your marbles?

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Routes in The Asylum