Start with a left hand pocket and right hand high crimp with feet on the low rail.  Move up through slopers, small crimps, and a sharp pocket to top out on the same rail as Keith's Way.

Gandolf Won

Keith's Way

Hidden Jewel

This short strength-y 5.11 is probably tied with Pee Wee's for the best route at Penitentiary Hollow.  From the start, traverse up and left, crossing over hands on big ledge holds.  Surmount the small bulge up to a big hueco and shake it out.  The crux comes right after this, a powerful move up and right to a small gaston, and then a few more crimps to the finish.

Climb up 10 feet to the small ledge that angles up and left, ending at a nice deep positive pocket. Now for the crux moves thru the next slightly over-hanging section, reach up right to a positive four-fingertip side-pull, then a long reach straight up with left arm to a large ledge hold. After that the moves are still pumpy, going up the overhang. Some say mid-5.11, especially for shorter climbers on the crux move to the large ledge..

The Big Overhang wall offers the longest and hardest routes in the park.  There is a ramp dividing the overhang from the main canyon that provides an easy class 5 scramble to/from the parking lot.  This area does not see many climbers.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Big Overhang