Start in the same spot as

A Farewell to Poodles

, at a point where the hillside drops fairly steeply down to the start of

Head Over Heals

.

Traverse right along horizontal cracks to the left edge of a ceiling. Make hard and spooky moves up and right using a thin flake to gain the base of the

Head Over Heals

crack (after the roof portion of that route).

Follow the left leaning crack all the way to the top (

Head Over Heals

moves right into a different crack at a ceiling). In addition to the face move to gain the crack, there's another difficult move just after

Head Over Heals

jogs to the right at the ceiling.

The upper cracks on this route are quite fun.

Vogel's JT West guide has

Head Over Heals

drawn as going up the upper crack, when in fact almost everyone jogs right at the second ceiling and climbs up to the fixed anchor atop P1.

The Dangerous Poodle

For Whom the Poodle Tolls

Suspect Rock

Head Over Heals

Ravens Do Nasty Things To My Bottom

Fusion Without Integrity

Mind over Splatter

Route 182

Unknown

The Old Man and the Poodle

Mind Over Matter

Mind Meld

Easy As Pi

A Farewell to Poodles

Astropoodle

Mind Blender

Space Walk

This route is located on the right side of the middle section of Hemingway Buttress. Start to the right of "For Whom the Poodle Tolls" under a dual crack system. The start requires a traverse right under the previous route on fairly good holds. Ascend the left crack until surmounting an obvious bulge. At this point, traverse right into the right crack and follow it to the top.

Left of Head Over Heals lie two 5.9 "Poodle" routes, A Farewell To Poodles and For Whom The Poodle Tolls. FWTPT is a fun route; a little grainy, but worth doing if in the area.  Bartlett gives it a "PG" rating, but I felt it protected fine.  The descent down gully to climber's left involves a move or two of 5.3 downclimbing around a large boulder.

This climb takes one past two bolts to a very suspect looking block.  Lieback around this and climb to the top.

It is located just about 8 ft left of the route Puzzlin Evidence in the corridor or sorts, opposite of Astropoodle.

A great climb with a combination of fun gymnastic roof turning moves followed by a great hand/finger crack.

Climb up a ramp to a bolt on the right side of the roof. There is a bolt there that you can clip by lying back on a flake. Be careful not to pull out on the flake as it is thin and hollow. If you are under 5'9" you may have trouble reaching it. Make sure your shoulders and hamstrings are in good shape for turning the roof. Using your leg to lever yourself up over the roof can be really helpful. Climb up a crack (stay to the right) and top out on a large ledge with anchors.

In my opinion this is a great and often overlooked JTree classic.

This climb is near the far right end of the wall, where the formation is rounded.  The climbing consists of gritty face moves up a crack system.

This route is located on the far right portion of Hemingway Buttress just to the right of Puzzlin' Evidence; it's the third route looking left to right. Climb past two bolts into a crack that leads directly to the top. It's somewhat sustained and presents a few interesting choices at crux points. If the leader chooses to climb up the large flake as I did, don't pull out on it. All three of our party though this was a very enjoyable route deserving of some stars it hadn't previously been given.

Forty feet to the right of Space Walk, the last route before a prominent gully.  It is an adventurous lead up poorly protected flakes and a very thin dihedral with an intriguing crux entry move; worth doing.

This route is located on the right portion of Hemingway Buttress. Approximately in the middle of the formation is a deep recess. Climb the somewhat loose rock up and into the recess then follow the crack system to the top. From below, it all looks a bit grim; however, we were somewhat surprised when we found the climb fun. There is a good deal of steming and excellent protection all the way.

This is the hand crack that extends above the chimney described in Mind Blender.  Crack is slightly overhanging for ~10 ft, and then arcs to the right, eventually straightening to arrive just below the anchor at the summit.  This route is a superb second pitch to Space Walk.

This route is located on the right side of the east face center of Hemingway Buttress.Start off a rock to the right of a tree filled gully. Climb a short left facing book then exit right and up into a crack system. Proceed to the top.

Start as per Head Over Heals/Astropoodle, then climb up to the right side of the roof (poor pro and scary until you clip the bolt just above the roof).

Now you can relax and enjoy some great face moves on the slightly overhanging face (nice rock) up to the Spacewalk handcrack to finish.

Start about 10 feet to the right of

Mind Over Splatter

at the base of a right leaning crack/corner/ramp. There is a bush at the base of this feature.

Climb up and right along the crack/corner/ramp to a ceiling. Step right into a notch above a small tree. Climb up and left to an arête and varnished face. Climb up the varnished face to the top.

This short hand crack is at the far right end of the wall.

Do the crux roof of Head Over Heels, but head up and slightly right on the steep wall above.  The climb finishes on a ledge system half way up the rock, with a walk-off descent.  The route has fun moves past overhangs with excellent protection.

Start at the base of a chimney in the same spot as

Space Walk

and

Mind Over Splatter

.

Scramble up the chimney about 10 feet, where you'll find a hand-sized crack on the left wall for pro. Stem/chimney until you can reach a corner system on the right wall. This corner is to the left of the upper portion of

Mind Over Splatter

. Climb this corner system to its top, then go up a short crack on the left wall. When the crack ends, face climb up and left to the fixed anchor on top of the second pitch of

Head Over Heals

.

Just around the corner to the right of Head Over Heels is this short hand crack.  It is a very nice clean, strenuous, exposed hand crack on a north-facing section of the cliff.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Right)