A really cool seam feature that lays back using good flakes and smears for feet. Decent warm-up.

Jehovah Hireh

Mano-y-mono

Blue (Binochet)

Divine Right

Kiss my Quaking Aspen

Glass Slipper

There

5.7 Chimney

The Emperor's New Clothes

To Hear

Surprise surprise

Reconstructed Visions

Slightly over hung face to right of Kiss My Quaking Aspen

Sustained crimps and monos to a crux between the fourth and fifth bolts then the route ends with twenty feet of fun five eleven climbing. This route could be classic but there are a lot of manufactured holds. Kind of a disappointment but it's still one of the most beautiful climbs i've seen.

Slabmaster route. Ascend reachy and hard to find pockets and edges up long steep slab.  Requires delicate foot work on small edges and pockets. The crux is in the last 10 feet, it offers very little in the form of actual holds requiring precision footwork.

The route heads up an arete and pocketed face. The route is fingery with most face holds being 2 finger pockets. Strong fingers subtle footwork and a couple long reaches will get you to the top of this stellar route.

I would give it 4 stars if it were not for the first move which is a bit awkward and unpleasant due to a small section of choss that should be your feet.

Once established on the wall 6 feet up, the route is the best arete I have ever had the pleasure of climbing.

(A note for those concerned about ethics, One hold does appear to be manufactured. The route is so good I suggest not getting your panties in a bunch and climb it anyway.)

This route dances from right of the first bolt to left of the second, just right of the third over the forth then left of the anchors for the finish. It's a lot of movement over a short vertical distance. Small fingers and pointy toes help with the send.

It took considerable cleaning to remove some rotten veneer on the bottom and midway up. Always be mindful of additional rock peeling on a new route. It's prudent, especially for the belayer, to wear a helmet.

A must do!

A great route that heads up the left arete of an aesthetic leaning block. Nice edges and arete lead to a tough crux up high. It is amazing the level of pump this route cam deliver in 35 feet. The crux is in the last 8 feet and has lead to many heartbreaking falls on the last move.

A bit of a clipping crux on the last bolt before the chains.

Obvious wide crack to right of Pricipality Head Wall.

A technical, just under vertical route up an eye-catching black streak.  Expect small pockets and features, lots of footwork, and a wandering line that keeps you thinking and searching for ways to progress upwards.

Step off a large boulder and tweak past the initial crux using small pockets to a horizontal break.  An easier but confusing section weaves past a shallow scoop, and some spaced edges to welcome finger bucket and a long section of easier but balancy climbing to another horizontal break below a small roof.  Pull over roof(beware of the large loose flake!!!) and jaunt up edges and pockets to rap bolts.

Overall a great route.  Personally, this felt like 5.11 so be ready for more of a challenge than the proposed grade suggests.

Steep hard climbing up crimps and pockets. The crux is between the first and second bolt involving a undercling two finger pocket and a small crimp pocket. After pulling the crux the climbing stays consistent. You really can't relax until after you have clipped the chains. really fun powerful route.

Start out on 15 feet of 5.11 climbing to some jugs by the second bolt make sure you chalk up because you won't get the chance again for a while. From the second bolt do a v4/5 boulder problem to the fourth bolt. Deal with a tricky clip and then straight into the crux a v6/7 boulder problem to a jug and the fifth bolt. Relax and deal with 15 feet of 12a to the top.

Great movement through small pockets. Sustained climbing all the way to the top, the best route on the wall.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Principality