Look up from the belay tree, and you'll see that there are lots of wide, foot-sized ledges going up to the left of the belay. You can't protect much till you're about 15 feet up, but the going is fairly easy, even for a short person (I'm 5'0").

 Use the ledges to move up, placing pro when possible, aiming for a dirt ledge at a left-facing corner with a small (3 inch diameter trunk) birch tree growing from it. Move up past the tree into a corner with white rock, place pro, and move higher up into the corner. Skirt the blank block to your right (good feet), and then climb up the block. There's pro here. This is the first crux, especially for a short person. It's fairly difficult moving up the wide crack here.

 Move up the crack until you come to a cave on a ledge (second crux). The cave is about 20 inches high, and partially blocked by a basketball sized boulder. Be careful - this boulder is completely loose! Watch your rope to be sure you don't push it onto your belayer! You will have to decide how to get past this obstacle - I'm not sure how the FA did it, and I don't know if there's a best way, but in our case the leader went behind the boulder, being careful to place pro in the cave so the rope wouldn't push the boulder down. You might be able to go straight up to avoid the cave, or traverse in front of it.

 Once you've groveled out of the cave, move up a wide crack (pro), up past a dirty ledge, and you'll find a rap station. Think about how you're going to get down in advance; if you have only a 60m rope you may not be able to rap to the ground. There's also a rap station to climber's left, which should lead down past "The Hawk", also 110 ft. Don't trust the tat - bring your own.

 In the Handren guide, this route is graded as 5.4. However, I found it much harder than the two 5.4 routes at nearby Lost Horizon (and harder than any 5.4 I've climbed at the Gunks), so I'm giving it a 5.6 here. Maybe I'll change my mind if I try it again.

Perez Dihedrals

This area is kind of difficult to get to, and doesn't appear to be frequently used. Even so, some of the rock looks superb! The cliff faces south and gets plenty of sun during the summer.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Far Cliff - The Right End