Pitch 1: Trend up the face, pull the right facing corner, belay.

Pitch 2: Pull the large roof right of the belay (crux); traverse up and right to a small ledge and belay.

Pitch 3: Continue up and right to the top.

Walk off

Lost in Space

Anegada Passage

Winged Mongrel

Star Trekin'

Eros

Eros Direct

Start the route at a thin white tips crack on a blackish/brown slab.  Slab up using slopers, crimps, and the crack.  Make some technical moves through a bulge to a great stance below a small overhang.  Plug gear and pull the crux at the overhang.  Continue up above a block in the crack. Then make moves up and left onto a slopey ledge.  Continue up and left to a left-facing corner (R, but easy).  The pin protecting this traverse left as described in the NC Selected Guide no longer exists.  Pull the corner to a great belay ledge and build a trad anchor.

Directly above the P1 corner is a white face with horizontals.  Pull through the 9+ horizontals and get gear when you can.  This section is slightly runout until you can pull onto the next large ledge, so be comfortable at the grade.  Either belay on the ledge or continue up.  The drag is not severe to continue as a single pitch.  Several variations exist to exit the final wall.  Move left on the ledge to the base of a small finger crack.  This crack ends and more big juggy horizontals start.  Follow these up to the base of a large roof and pull right around the roof.  Belay above the roof and walk off left using a gravely trail.  You reach the top after doing two easy moves over small sections of rock.

Most parties climb the P2 of Lost in Space, but it is worth finishing Star Trekkin' at least once.

Anegada Passage, goes thru a left  angling overhanging/roof crack/ flake type feature  at the end of the Hawks Bill Traverse. Ted Anderson  and I did it as a finish to the Hawks Bill  traverse around 1979. It was never really documented in the local guide books. However,  when checking these out I  am guessing this may be the same route that was later called Campbell Crack and claimed as a FA by Doug Reed and Tommy Howard 1983, several years after Ted and I did it. However without having been there in many years I am not certain of that. The description of that climb sounds similar as well as the location given in the topo diagram of Selected Cilmbs in North Carolina and Thomas Kelly's guide to N.C..    Anegada is mentioned in the back of Thomas Kelly's guidebook but I remember him saying he wasn't sure where it was when he wrote that guide so he didn't add it to his diagram of the cliff. As I recall it is a high quality finish and a burly 5.10...

The name comes from a passage in the  Caribbean  between the British Virgin Islands and Anguilla .  Notoriously called the OH-MY-GOD-A (Anegada) Passage. Its a straight in the Caribbean with some depths reaching more than 6,000 feet. Crazy currents flow through from the Atlantic as they feed into the Caribbean Sea and its not uncommon for waves to be slamming against the hull from three different directions.I had a very memorable, wild and rough crossing on that passage in a severe storm with my dad in a sailboat one time . It was a wild experience and therefore an inspirational name for this wild climb.

Anegada Passage is a strait in the Caribbean, at 18°22′41″N 63°50′15″W﻿ / ﻿18.377986°N 63.837433°W. It separates the British Virgin Islands and the British ruled Sombrero Island of Anguilla.

Tom Howard wrote:

Bob is correct. I always thought that Anegada Passage was a cool 20' horizontal flake crack on the top of Hawks Bill. He described Campbell Crack perfectly. Doug and I will just have to claim the second accent, maybe the third, fourth or fifth, who knows. Bob, thanks for the correction, looking forward to getting together when you visit NC.

Start on near vertical rock, head up and left to a vertical crack, pull a couple of awkward moves to a good stance below the roof, place some good gear, and get moving on the rather steep roof.  Exit to the left before the end of the roof!

Other advice from the guide book...

Start: At left most side of cliff on a bushy pedestal.

Pitch 1: Move up the face and angle left to where a roof and angling crack system meet.  Follow the corner up and right until you can monkey-bar onto the face using huge jugs.  Continue up the face to a natural belay near the top of the cliff.

Descent: Move right to rappel from the two bolts atop "Eros Direct".  80 feet.

Information from "Select Climbs in North Carolina".  Yon Lambert and Harrison Shull.  2002.

Awkward climbing leads to a right to left angling crack.  Massive Holds, great gear.  Climbs like the latter part of Winged Mongrel but longer and more sustained.  after turning the corner onto the face it saves a lot of rope drag to belay there.  Then go up and right to the anchors.

Information on this route was hard to find, but this seems to be a direct line after pulling the Eros starting roof. Instead of traversing out left on the jug rail, pull the bulge and step right onto a sloping ledge. From here find the good jugs and clip the rusty bolt. Begin to move left and up on the crimps and jugs until you can find one or two finger/hand size cams. Finish at the obvious bolted anchor/rap station. Keep in mind that once you place the #1 cam under the roof, there is no suitable gear until the bolt. If you were to fall pulling this move you would likely hit the slab or pendulum into the dihedral (PG13/R section). The holds are pretty good once you find them, you just have to commit. Can be easily top-roped after leading the other routes.

I am still uncertain if Eros Variation listed in the Thomas Kelly guidebook follows a different line than Eros Direct. The topos in the two books seem to suggest they are different lines. Both are listed as 12a.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Main Wall