To find this route, please use the directions in "

Abracadabra

".  From

Abracadabra

, walk west about 20 feet and up onto a big tilted belay slab.  From here, you can peer down into a pit, from which a nice bolted chimney ascends on the left side.  This route is basically to the right of "

Chomping at the Bit

(13b).

If I were to name this route, I would probably call it "The Fischer Price My First Chimney Route".  This makes a pretty decent first chimney due to the fact that, should you tire of chimney-suffering, there are great face holds and you can pretty much stem the heck out of it.  However, if you want to get ready for pretty much any classic long route....

Coffee Bitch

Blackshirts

Kidz Bop Crack

Thick as Thieves

I Can Smell Your Thoughts

Diamarrhia Fullenkrap

Wir Sind Die Größten

Hume's Horror

A.W.E.S.O.M.- O 4000

Unknown 5.8

The Crush of Love

Lizard of Oz

SETI

Chomping at the Bit

Flakeus Maximus

Ragged Ass Tinkering Cow Thieves

El Lagarto

Gila

Mary Iguana

Tunnel Vision

Not For Girly Men

Three Holes Make A Face

Abracadabra

Big Lizard In My Backyard

The Cry of Love

Portable Airplane (aka Robbin' the Hood)

Unknown 7

Don't Worry, Baby

Get Your Wings

Centurion

Velociraptor

Anselmo Power

Lizzard With a View

First Class Tickets to The Resurrection

RAMMESES

Party Hardy Tardy Marty

Unknown 5.7

S.L.I.M.F.A.S.T.

Exorcist

Facing the Animal

You Can't Handle The Truth

One Ton Son

Mental Hopscotch

The Lizard King

Wun Dum Fuk

Flying High Again

Arblow Hard

Black is Beautiful

So Emotional

Arthur's Lip Service

Wedgie

Zu den händen von Herrn Wiesenthal

Pack Mule

Schindler's Pissed

Eh, Nice Route

5.6 Crack

Detachable Pillar Arete

Shelfie

In the Region of the Butterfly Pump

Crow's Nest

Hair Today, Gone Tomorrow

Elvis is Everywhere

Too Many Notes, Your Majesty

To the Max Von Sydow

Lounge Lizard

Lord of the Warlocks

Creepy Ass Cracker

[Redacted]

Well Hung

Iguana Breath

Sympathy For The Devil

Induction Oven

Mardi Gras

Ahkenaten

Far Side's Trad Route

This route is located in the "Far Side" area, directly across from the Bulge Wall of Menses Prow.  It is a bit out of the way for Shelf...nice and secluded.  The route starts in a pit that stays nice and cool.  The climbing is very straightforward and easy (5.10ish) until you reach a brutal crux boulder problem at a distinct bulge.  Some tenuous moves on almost non-existant holds get you over the bulge, then the climbing eases to the chains.

This route is probably easier when it's cold.  The crux relies a lot on skin friction on some sharp holds, so the warmer the weather, the softer your skin will be.

I thought the moves were easy off the hang, but linking them proved harder than I first expected due to increasingly sore fingertips with each attempt.  This was rated 13b in Van Horn's books, the new Sharp End book calls it 13a, which I think is about right.

Lieback and jam the flake system on great holds for 4 clips. Continue to follow the steepening, right-trending flake system with some sweet sinker pockets on the face and good feet at C5 to C6.

Climb great sidepulls and lefty pockets for 2 clips to a stance out left. Finish with techy face climbing for two clips to the chained anchors.

This ascends a finger crack with a good layback just to the left of the

Unknown 5.8

.

A crux start leads to some cool reaches to pockets through the finish.

The description from Thompson guidebook, 2017... "this superb route starts in the Dragon's Lair behind a tree, a short distance right of the corner. Follow the line of bolts up a beautifully clean wall to anchors."

Carrie yourself several feet above the trail to start. Climb the Karloff corner with creepy jams, tingly fingers, and some weary feet for three clips to the Lugosi ledge. A few devilish moves with a big reach to C5 gets you to C6. Levitate your way up past C7 to the Lon Chaney's.

Climb the small pillar past three bolts to the vertical face and on to the anchors.

Ascend juggy climbing for two clips, and then climb the tricky face for three clips to the chained anchors.

Follow gently overhanging jugs up to the final roof crux.  Pull up and right over the roof to good clipping holds above the anchors.

Climb the 10 foot finger crack to a dusty ledge. Go straight up following the  crack / flake system to the chained anchors.

This is a new route, wear a helmet.

Begin with big holds on nice ledges to C1. Move up on great lefty pockets and edges past some dusty rock to C2.

Move up and right with underclings and pockets with some hollow rock on the right to C3. Gain C4 on crimpers to a sweet, big, flat hold section.

Follow the deep hands crack with tricky feet to the chained anchors.

Start in the smooth corner to C1. Continue in the corner with pretty good hand holds and good feet through C2 to C3. Move left at the wedged chockstone to C4 and then on to the anchors.

Get big righty holds to C1. Once past C1, move right and clip C2 with a stance out right.

Move to the arête on good / slopey / fingery holds and feet past 3 clips to the anchors.

Climb the great BIG, left-trending flake with some sustained smooth jams, hidden holds inside the flake, pretty good feet and pockets and small edges on the left face for 5 clips to a small break at C6.

Gain the small break and climb the upper face on thinker pockets and tricky feet past C7 and then big pockets to and past C8 to the chained anchors.

Start with great, vertical black rock with cruxy moves past 2 clips to a small break. Climb the black, slabby face to the chained anchors.

After starting up the crack, make a crux move right to a second clip. It is loose up top on the right edge of arête.

Follow the arete with good holds to cruxes near the 4th & 5th clips. Continue straight up on big pocket pulling to the chained anchors.

Mary Iguana ascends sharp, vertical holds with small footholds to a tricky, sidepull crux near the fourth clip.

Start on top of the block to clip C1. Follow the weakness with nice hands and feet with steepening rock for 4 clips to the anchors.

This climb goes up the cleaner center section of the panel between the easier climbs that follow the crack/ramp systems.

This has tricky start moves up a right-leaning arch. Keep moving right to crack then up the face to "

3 Holes

" finish over a bulge.

To find this route, hike west along the base of the wall on the "far side" until you are fairly close to the incredible hulk boulder.  At this point, the far side wall will have a few detached and semi-detached pillars that make it a bit maze like.  Hike west and slightly left, around a corner and there will be a nice recessed area with very dark rock.  In this recess is sort of a pillar sandwiched between two walls.  This is Abradacadbra and at the base of this route there is plenty of room to set up shop.

Abracadabra is one of the best 9s at Shelf (IMHO).  It isn't as long as Lumina (on the dark side), but the rock quality is comparable (very good).

If you can get through the first 2 bolts you are in like flynn.  The top section is a little bit runout, but the climbing is several grades easier at this point.  This route makes a good warm-up in the summer time as it is in the shade most of the day.  Enjoy.

Climb up and trend left to about half height at a big pocket and good stance.  2 more bolts of thin holds gets  you to the anchors, just below the ledge/break about 2/3 of the way up the cliff face.

Start with tricky climbing with pretty good feet to C1. Move to C2 with better holds and a stance. Clip C3 and a close C4 with some harder moves to the start of the upper cruxy crack.

Jam the continous crack with some thinker feet, 2 big righty holds, and sharp rock past 4 clips to the chained anchors.

"Climb a broken crack system to anchors beneath a bulge.  A decent, albeit short, route."

-from Fred Knapp's 'Shelf Road Rock'.

This ascends a very short, medium width crack.

Move right then up towards a reachy lefty C1. Move straight up on big incuts to C2. Climb straight up on smooth rock past 3 clips with vertical moves and a cruxy move to a stance. Climb a few final moves to the anchors.

Climb the low, techy face past 3 clips to a large ledge. Go straight up the vertical face to a final bulgy section to the anchors.

Climb the clean, left-facing crack on very positive holds. The crux is past the 4th bolt where the route goes vertical. A finger crack and a high-step pocket will get you to the anchors out to your right.

Velociraptor ascends big pockets with pretty good footholds to C1, then you get vertical climbing straight up on more big pockets & sidepulls to and past C5. Finish on big pockets & edges past 2 clips to the reachy anchors.

Climb good holds to C1. Climb straight up vertical rock with thinker feet, pretty good hand holds with nice edges/incuts, and pockets past two clips.

Continue up or move right to the arête past two clips to the anchors.

Black is beautiful.  Climb the dark, vertical to overhanging wall past 10 or so clips.  The difficulties come quickly (at the 2nd bolt), but the pitch is engaging all the way to the anchors.

Note: you can cheat the crux on the right with some offwidth debauchery... drops the grade to .10d or so.  Still a stellar line.

The first half of the route is fairly easy on nice black rock. Then climb straight up the blonde face with some cruxy moves to the anchors.

Climb some dusty rock to C1. Clip C1 and move up and left into the obvious flake system.

Fun well-protected climbing follows the flake system on big holds, some tricky feet, and a brief crux at C6 past C7 to the anchors.

Gain the arete with stemming to C1. Follow the arete with increasing vertical difficulty past 4 clips to the chained anchors.

This route is possibly harder for shorter climbers. This route never gets sun.

This has vertical climbing on the reddish face, then climb a big holds mid-section to C3. Finish with a face to a bulge to the anchors.

Climb up a face just right of a large hollow flake. Move up to cold shuts on thin hands and feet, get under a bulge with dicey feet, and push through to the anchor.

Begin with a liebacky flake start past 2 clips to a small break. Move left for the bigger holds to and past C3. Gain the face with pockets, edges, not-so-good feet, and some sharp rock to C5. Continue with reachy big edges with pretty good feet and then big pockets to the anchors. This is tightly bolted climbing up the vertical face.

Climb an easy reachy start to a smallish break. Climb the black, vertical face to the big bulge. Pull the bulge on the left with great in-cuts, killer pocket, not-so-good feet, and reachy edges to a flat ledge. Move past 2 clips to the anchors.

This route never gets sun.

Start with vertical climbing for 3 clips, and then stem and pull straight up to the chained anchors.

Watch your back when lowering

.

Climb nice hands and feet to C1. Then you get vertical to overhanging climbing on buckets to C4. Continue on not-so-good hands but good feet past C6 to the awkward to clip anchors.

Start on 5.6 crack, and move left to the first clip of TLK. Continue left with thin feet and some lefty reaches to C2. Grab the good / hollow flake, and move up past it with some sustained low 10ish climbing for 3 clips under the smallish bulge. Pull the bulge with one clip. Climb up and left past C7 to the chained anchors.

Climb the short crack past C1 to a stance. Gain the big pocketed face past C2 through C5.

Continue on steepening rock on good reachy holds to C6. There is bulgy rock on good but reachy and hard to locate holds past C7. An exciting finish to the reachy anchors awaits you.

Climb on big holds to C1. Continue with tough fingery moves with thin feet over the small bulge to a small rest. Find more tough moves for a few more clips on the smooth slab to a break. Climb vertical rock past 3 clips to the anchors. It is possibly harder than .12-?

Climb big holds to C1 then smaller and smaller holds up to C5 on great, Shelf smooth rock. Gain the smallish ledge, and continue up past 2 clips on vertical easier climbing to the anchors.

So Emotional has great easier climbing on nice stone the whole way. Use the lefty arete and smooth holds on the right.

Start with tough climbing with righty, thin face holds, techy feet, and smooth lefty sidepulls for two clips to a BIG stance. Move straight up the face with good hands, thinker feet, and a few reaches for four clips to a small break. Climb superb rock split by a thin crack for three clips with pretty good crimpers, thin fingers in the crack, tough feet, and a few long reaches to the chains.

Begin with a fairly easy start to C1. Climb the corner with a few tricky .8 moves to a rest. Continue straight up the corner with huge wedged blocks near C7 to the anchors.

Move to C1 near the lefty, black corner. Climb straight up on great holds to C2.

Follow the hour glassy crack with tricky jams and feet to the short vertical face to the anchors.

Follow the arete on great black rock with big edges and pockets with a thinker exit to the anchors.

Watch your back when lowering. This route never gets sun.

Climb the same start as

Zu den händen von Herrn Wiesenthal

, but move left to the long, black, slabby face for 6 clips passing great hand holds and feet to a smallish break under C7.

Pull the upper face on the left with big, reachy, flat jugs and tricky feet for 2 clips to the anchors.

A short route emerged from the blight of obscurity. This is a quick hit for the anxious or just get one more in at the end of the day. Do not taunt the large, bulgy flake to the left as you pass the 2nd bolt.

Start in the once dirty, low right corner on the right side of the pillar where it meets the wall. Move up and left through the face to attain the arete, then prepare to get needled.

It is easy climbing to C1. Climb the small hollow flake with big holds to a nice small ledge near C3. Follow the right fingery crack and some great sinker pockets on the left blond face to C5.

Move left with a sweet undercling with close pockets and thinker feet to a really reachy C6. Good hidden holds out reachy left near C6 move you up to C7. Big holds up and left with more thinker feet and sustained 10ish pulling lets you clip the chained anchors.

To find this route, please see the directions for "Abracadabra".  ITROTBP is the route just to the right of Abracadabra, and faces north-ish.

This is a pretty darn good route.  The climbing is fairly continuous, and there isn't really any showstopper cruxes.  This is definitely another route where good footwork and technique will probably go further than strength.  Try your best to avoid stemming back against the Abracadabra pillar :)

Start in the zig-zaggy crack for 3 clips to a stance. Follow the arete for 4 clips to a hollow flake section below C8. Gain the flake, clip C8, and climb the steeper upper face past C9 on big holds to the chained anchors.

Climb up a face with an arete to the right. Start with your right hand on the arete and your left on small edges. Slap up the arete till you get a good hold to clip the first bolt. Slap up with the right a couple more times while utilizing mono pockets for your left till you can clip the second bolt. The next four bolts are easier but keep you on your game. Climb over one more bolt, moving right to the anchor. Stick clip the first bolt or have a good spot if you don't like climbing 5.10 unprotected to the first bolt. This is dedicated to anyone who has unfortunately been touched by the scourge of cancer.

To find this route, please see the direction for "

[105752980

]".  EIE is two routes to the right.  It begins by stepping off of a large belay slab and across a little gap to the first holds.

When I climb a route like this, it makes me so sad.  If this route was 195 feet of the material the first 3 bolts are made of it, it would be stellar.

But in the real world, it [isn't] always that way.  Enjoy the fun beginning (you have to look around a bit for the holds) and cruise up the last section.

Begin with a cruxy start on black rock to an easier section. Then follow the smallish groove to the anchors. The route is still dirty in spots but pretty fun and possibly the easiest route at the Far Side.

Gain the big scary, hollow sounding flake to the first bolt. Move right through 3 clips with cruxy climbing near the arete. Climb up a few more clips to the anchors.

Start with big holds to C1. Move up on good fingery holds to C2. Cruise straight up on steepening rock and two mini-cracks to the anchors.

This climb goes up the center of a clean panel then up through several overlaps and bulges.

Start in the wide crack with moderate climbing on good holds on the left and right sides of the deep crack for three clips to a stance out right. Clip C4, and climb straight up the steepening pocketed face for four clips with a finishing crux to the chains.

Start a few feet left of

Ragged Ass Tinkering Cow Thieves

. Move up and left for a few clips to a break. Climb straight up the nice face with sustained moves to a cruxy finish to the anchors.

It is hard to believe a route of this vintage and quality has eluded the database until now. Expect old-school on this route: hardware, bolt-spacing, and grade, although 11d seems right on. This is almost as good as

Lats

.

Employ right heel-hooking and/or high-stepping to gain the crucial second bolt. Once clipped, the potential for a big fall exists, but you will not hit the ground. Reload the guns at the huge, right-facing flake about mid-pitch. Traverse right and then up, sequentially, on sharp pockets to a big hole followed by a bigger jug. Take a deep breath, and clip a bolt. Cruise to the anchor.

"This climbs the dark black streak left of Black is Beautiful.  Traverse to the first bolt from the left.  One red hanger at the start."

-From Fred Knapp's Shelf Road Rock.

The crux for me was between bolts 2 and 3.  There was some non-trivial sequencing to work out, to say the least!

Thin holds for 4 bolts place you at the last one, a single cold shut to lower from.

A stick clip is recommended. Somewhat insecure climbing gets you to the first bolt, at which point you're nicely above the starting ledge.

Where logical fallacies are cooked up?  This is the sister route to

Hume's Horror

.  Although not as sustained, expect a few harder moves.

Mardi Gras has nice pocket pulling to a small overlap, then it goes out the bulge to the anchors. This passes two large pockets en route.

From the ledge, climb good holds and feet to C1. Clip C1 and move right to a stance.

Follow the flake moving up then left with great righty holds, lefty face holds, and thinker feet for 4 clips to a break. Pass wooden Ahkenaten for 3 clips on big holds to the anchors.

There are two starts to this route: begin climbing the overhanging fist crack on tan rock or begin a little to the right on a prominent black bulge in the rock.

Once you are up by the 2 parallel hand cracks, you'll begin to veer up and to the right. The crack tapers more and more the higher you go until the very top where you can grab an excellent knife edge that will lead you the last several feet to the anchors.

Attention: there are no rings on the anchors yet, just hangers. I rapped off the hangers without damaging my rope, but that may not be a risk you want to take.

Description

Protection

Routes in Far Side