Balance up a slabby boulder at the start, brace yourself against the wall and then steady yourself as you eye the target - a distant jug. Fire off a dyno* to hit the jug and then go ballistic up the corners above which lead to an airy arete and slab finish.

* Those with the necessary span may simply reach to the jug.

Triggernometry

Cliptomania

Big BM

Fun Pilot

Blue Sky Highway

Lost on the Horizon

Sardonyx

Branch Out!

Palm Pilot

Freak on a Leash

Nothing Could be Finer than to be in a Vagina in the Morning

Here Comes the Fun

Skytower

Endless Blue Sky

Endless Sky

Skylarking

Clip Art

Whose Line is it Anyway?

Opiate

Juniper Route

This route starts just right of

Opiate

and climbs the right arete of the main pillar directly from the bottom, joining with

Clip Art

at the fourth bolt.

Climb an overhanging right-facing flake to it's end and then bust out left (crux) to a distant edge. Once past the crux and established on the arete proper, climb engaging moves past three bolts on impeccable stone to a stance below the final two bolts, and then head up and left along the slightly overhung arete (5.10a) to shared anchors with Clip Art.

This, the only crack line on the formation, takes the enjoyable left-facing corner system that lies between the main pillar and the right face.

Climb the corner system, which is better than it looks, to a ledge and then make some face moves past a bolt to finish at a bolted anchor.

This fun link up climbs beautifully sculpted rock past the first three bolts of

Palm Pilot

and continues above through two opposite-facing corners to an exposed arete and slab finish.

Fun slab climbing to about the halfway point before pulling over a juggy bulge and finishing up steeper face.

This route, the easiest at the crag, weaves it's way across the face to exploit the weaknesses and find the path of least resistance, so take lots of slings.

Start on a face to thin crack and then head right and up across the face to the obvious arête which is climbed for a bit until an easy traverse right is possible. Finish up

Big BM

past it's bolt or just keep traversing right to keep the climbing even easier.

Climb Clip Art to the 2nd bolt, then continue up and left to gain the arete proper where exposed moves eventually join the ledge shared with Big BM; continue up and right passing a final bolt shared with that route.

Start up vertical terrain on good holds that get noticeably smaller after the 2nd bolt. Climb above the 3rd bolt then branch out left towards the slabby arete. Clip the 4th bolt then finish on the low angle face to the anchor. Nice clipping jug above the anchor. Also be sure to watch out for that branch, if you fall near the top.

Climb nice rock up an easy slab past three bolts to a block at the start of a sharply right-slanting arete. Mantle atop a block, clip a bolt and make some thin moves (crux) to grab the arete proper and then rail out right along the edge of the arete past three more bolts and somewhat sustained climbing to anchors.

Due to the traversing nature of this route it's advisable to pull the rope through and clean it on top-rope.

Thin and bouldery down low with glassy feet to better holds above as it eases to 5.11 climbing. Currently the hardest route at the crag.

Start up the overhanging chimney-like formation with an interesting sequence to gain a ledge. Work your way up the vagina-like slightly overhanging dihedral formation to a bolt. Unless you are solid at the grade, placing gear before the first bolt is recommended. No further gear is needed after you gain the first bolt.

Stem your way through the dihedral and make a tenuous clip at the second bolt. Stem even higher and find the hidden crimpy holds on top of the dihedral. Smear out left and pull over the top of the dihedral to another decent crimpy hold and work your way up the face for a few feet to another bolt. Pull over the top of a vertical section on your right and work your way up easier face to another bolt, and the anchors.

A few swift pulls on good edges over a bulge lands you on a ledge and the end of the difficulties. Continue up past two corners to the exposed arete and finish with a short bit of slab to the anchors.

Another fun link up to do here that combines the arete portion of

Blue Sky Highway

with the fun upper face of

Endless Sky

.

A fun link up that combines the thin crux of

Blue Sky Highway

with the steeper featured finish of

Endless Sky

.

An initial section of slabby arete ends on a sloping ledge just below the crux, which traverses left over the void on thin edges. Once past the crux fun climbing on big holds and a nice sequence of edges past the last bolt lead to the anchors.

A fun link up that adds the crux of

Here Comes the Fun

before doing the long, exposed hand traverse of

Palm Pilot

.

This is an easier, alternate start to

Cliptomania

that climbs the face to the right of the arete and then joins that route at it's fourth bolt.

Fun and sometimes tricky moves up and left past two bolts gain the arete proper where this route joins Cliptomania. Once on the arete climb engaging moves past three bolts up the slabby arete to a stance below the final two bolts and then head up and left along the slightly overhung arete to shared anchors with Cliptomania.

Ramp up past the first 2 bolts using nice holds and the crack to 'Big BM.' Eventually reach right from the crack to clip the third bolt. Use the protruding thin feature above the 3rd bolt leading to the ledge.

Continue up balancey but soft mantles. Anchors!

Starting from the left side of a small ledge 10' off the ground and just left of the start of

Cliptomania

climb straight up the center of the main pillar.

Crimpy moves over a bulge provide the first crux and lead to easy ground in the middle portion of the route before finishing up the amazing white headwall to the anchors.

This fun easy outing climbs the crack and arete on the right margin of the face and despite initial appearances is mostly face climbing with gear for protection.

Start up the crack which has plentiful face holds on the right and join

Blue Sky Highway

midway near the 4th bolt before cutting right to the arete and finishing slightly right of

Blue Sky Highway

onto the ledge with anchors.

* It's possible from the midpoint to climb straight up but the difficulty increases and protection options draw you out right to the arete.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (g) Onyx Summit Crag