A loose route that links chimneys and shallow gully systems up the southeast face.  Interesting for its historical precedent maybe more than the quality of the rock or the actual climbing.  This was apparently the first route up Yataghan (Kline 1970:26, 42).  Pitches described here are mostly split out according to Hill's guide (1993:140-14), which actually has a good narrative description, although his photo topo isn't too helpful. 

  P1: ~5.6, 75 feet.  Poor rock.  Climb a deep chimney to a nice ledge on the left.   P2: ~5.7-, 125 feet.  Poor rock.  Continue up the chimney, trend right past the top to a belay on a sloping broken ledge.  One fixed pin.   P3: ~5.7+, 140 feet.  Poor to fair rock.  Proceed up the shallow gully above, past a big hollow flake on the right.  At the top of the gully, traverse left and climb to a ledge with a prominent fir tree.  Rope drag can be a killer.   P4: ~5.7-, 110 feet.  Poor to fair rock.  Hill's guide outlines a right and left option; we took the one to the right.  Head slightly right from the ledge, up a blocky shallow dihedral; traverse left at the top, pass a bolt (see photo), and belay at the right side of the Lunch Ledge.  The left option also looks fun.   P5: ~5.7+/5.8-, 170 feet.  Excellent rock; great exposure.  Kline describes this as three pitches, and Hill says two (which it probably was, back when they used shorter ropes).  Easily done in one with a 60m line.  Up slightly right, then left toward the little tree, and fire for the top.  Two fixed pins.  Many people probably better know this last section as the final pitch of The Happy Gnome, but Cundiff and Hammack got it first.

Southeast Face

Blood on the Blade

The Happy Gnome

This route follows the south arête to Lunch Ledge.   P1: Cross a 4th-class slab to the left edge of a triangular face (you can start the 1st pitch here).  Make steep moves left past a fixed pin to gain the wall above and wander up and left heading for the obvious right-facing corner.  At a bolt, move left around the corner and face climb up for 30 feet then move back right around the corner onto the face and a fixed pin (5.8R).  Continue up and right to a bolt below a small roof.  Turn the roof (5.10) and belay 10 feet above at the first good crack.   P2: Continue up the gulley 80'to the base of a triangular face.   P3: Traverse left to the crack of Happy Gnome and continue up the crack to a small ledge with a fixed pin on the very edge of the arête.    P4: Move up and right on steep rock with good holds to a bolt.  Pull the 5.8 mantle above and continue up the arête to Lunch Ledge.   P5: Finish up the standard Happy Gnome to the summit.

If swinging leads, let your partner lead the first pitch, all the even numbered pitches are awesome!  

  P1: (5.7) Scrambling and easy dihedral climbing to a bolted anchor.  

  P2: (5.8+) Continue up, then a long traverse left. Climb the slightly runout face to an alcove belay.  

  P3: (5.7) Traverse up and right past a small tree to a hanging belay adjacent to the pitch 4 traverse. Hard route finding here.  

  A (5.9) variation to pitch 4 requires a slightly lower belay, the variation starts with a traverse left under a small roof, then continue up along a finger crack to join the standard pitch 4 at the crux roof.  

  P4: (5.8+) Make an improbable traverse to the left (small cams in horizontals), then pull a small roof (crux) to belay at a tree.  

  P5: (5.7) Climb up to an enormous ledge (lunch ledge).  

  P6: (5.8) Walk to end of lunch ledge (climbers right), follow corner systems on the ridge to the top.  You will pass an old ring piton and a bolt. Good exposure on this pitch.

A well defined buttress in the lower reaches of the upper La Cueva canyon.  Located on the north side of the La Luz trail, just behind(east) of The Pulpit.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Yataghan