This route climbs the steep face of the tower opposite the west face route. From the rappel station at the base of Peek-a-boo tower climb up broken ledges past one bolt to a left trending flake. Undercling left on good feet up onto the prow of the tower and finish on an easy ramp up to the top of the tower.

Gear to 3" nuts can be useful at the flakes

Scarecrow

West Face

Lawn Darts

Yard Art

After climbing the first few pitches of Yard Art (mixed, 5.9), move belay 30 or so feet to a bolted belay ledge for Lawn Darts or the 4th pitch of Yard Art.  From the belay, move up the slab on good friction and solid edges.  Holds get a little thinner/more balancy as the angle increases.  The crux is pulling a bulge 2/3 of the way up the route with good feet and thin holds.  This is an incredible line with fantastic movement!

From the top of the 2nd pitch of Yard Art, the West Face route follows a bolt line that heads left towards and then around the arete of the tower. The Kramar guidebook describes a second anchor near the base of this pitch, but the hangers were gone when we climbed it.  The pitch can be easily climbed from the Yard Art belay.

Once around the arete and onto the west face, follow a 4-inch fist crack for 15 feet and then climb steeply up a bolted face and arete onto the summit ridge of the tower.

This pitch has a little bit of slab climbing, a clean fist crack and some very airy face climbing at the top.  You top out on a little summit with great views of the Icicle Creek valley - very fun.  We rapped back down to one of the Yard Art belays with a 70 m.

Yard Art is the approach for all the climbs on Peek-a-boo tower, and a worthwhile climb in its own right.  Like many routes in Icicle Creek, it is a mix of bolt and gear protected slab climbing. Described as 4 pitches, easily climbed in 3.  All anchors are bolted.

P1.  Begin left of a small gully.  A short rib gives way to easy low angle slabs.  Follow a wide crack through a steep wall, then more slabs.  Gear and a few bolts.  5.7

P2.  A comitting and balancy move off the belay onto a friction face, then smear up past horizontal cracks to easier slabs above.  5.9

P3.  A short pitch heads up a steeper slab.  Smearing and nice edging, then a fun pull through a small roof.  Easily combined with P2 using a 60m rope.  5.9

P4.  Move the belay to the anchor at the base of Lawn Darts.  Climb the pocketed groove/chimney/crack thing, which is much weirder to describe than to climb.  A fun and memorable pitch.  5.8

Description

Routes in Peek-a-boo Tower