Start at the large hecuo above ground level, traversing slightly right. Head up and slightly right following a prominent slabby groove in the wall. Follow the groove to a slight ledge and chain anchors. Leave the ledge to a more vertical section of rock on spaced pockets to the higher anchor.

High quality rock on the bottom portion, though the slabby nature of the rock makes it feel a little intimidating. The rock quality on the upper vertical half is slightly worse but the holds are significantly better and much more enjoyable than the slab.

Pink Panther

Crystalline Entity

Barefoot and Pregnant

Cullinan

Clarity

Alimony

Diamonds are Forever

Child Support

Something Borrowed

Cock Ring

Space Diamonds

The Work & The Glory

Hidden Gem

Second Cousin

Sweet Ennui

Restraining Order

Rub It 'til It Shines

Joint Custody

Brilliance

Two Chains

Duncle

Flawless

Look Ma, No Hands!

Hope

Two Months Salary

While it isn't quite the mother of all batshit crazy caves (see: Rodeo Wall, NV), you probably won't want to linger too long here, as you puzzle pulling the lip to clip the first bolt. Consider a stick clip to the second, because ankles are more useful intact.  A few thin moves have you wondering "how much more of this?" but don't despair, the fun is yet to come.  One of those routes that just gets better as you go, and pockets start popping out of nowhere.  Clip the midway anchor and keep cruising cuz there's no more cruxing.  A great warm-up if you pretend like that cave pull start didn't happen.  Lower with a 70.

Start in a large pod and clip the HIGH first bolt (consider a stick clip), pull out of the pod on good pockets and gain the headwall.  Sustained pocket pulling on perfect rock takes you to another concave/pod type thing.  Get a good rest, and move out right through the bulge (crux).  A few more moves of easier rock to the anchors.  Amazing route, a little bit of Wild Iris in Utah!

Pull over the small roof (stick clip recommended for the low 2nd bolt) and move up using left facing side pulls and laybacks.  Pumpy clips!  The first crux comes about halfway, and involves a powerful move from a left hand vertical slot to a bad, slick right hand crimp.  This leads you to a good hole where you can get a great rest.  Another crux comes after this and involves some more left hand side pulls and some right hand pinch/gaston/funk things.

The footwork on this route was super fun.  Lots of smears in the blocky, mini-corners.  The rock should be noted as well.  It is phenomenal, bone-white limestone, covered in tufa drips.  Yea!

A gradual rightward rising traverse on easy rock takes you to to sustained straight up slab/vert climbing on thin pockets and sharp crimps.

So you want a fun, punchy side-pulling bulge crux at the top of 135 feet of mostly 5.fun?  Look no further!  Does it count if the crux is pulling up 10 pounds of rope to clip?  Ok, so there might also be an awkward move to watch for in the first section, but stay light on your toes and the juicy jugs appear right where you need them.  On the lower, use the midway anchor, or an 80m gets you maybe 10 feet off the ground into downclimb territory.

Sustained pocket pulling.  Perfect rock, great moves.  Tech-nasty, brah.  Good project for the 5.11 climber, not the best warm up due to the smaller holds.

This route is just so darn cool. Neat features, variety, length, solid quality rock.  Start up a jagged crack and follow as it veers left.  Plenty of good stuff to work your way up into the arch, then crest the crescent wherever you see fit.  Above the midway anchor there's a plot twist and the rock changes to this brown, textured barnacle-studded stuff.  And pockets so deep that they join up behind the rock surface and you'll be tempted to girth hitch a sling. Great fun.

Mostly slab climbing with several thin sections.  The top is a smooth slab with runnels.  Be careful at the anchor, it is above a ledge with lots of loose rocks.

Funky underclings and overlaps take you to the first crux at about mid-height, which involves some small crimps and pinches to surmount a bulge and gain a good rest at a big hueco.  Fun laybacking (another rest) to a cool traverse right into a concave.  The true crux is standing up into a bad right hand undercling and making a big, powerful move to a good left hand pinch.  Powerful, big moves on crimps and pockets lead you to a big throw to a huge hole, where you can clip the chains.

3 star climbing on 2 star rock.

Fun climbing on quality rock through various bulges.

I thought I knew what good pockets were, but then I climbed this route, and now I think all of those other great "pocket" routes may have just been a lie.

Funky start on some marginal rock (stick clip recommended) take you to the crux at the fixed wire draw (as of Nov. 2017).  The crux involves some undercling, layback type stuff moving left.  From here, jug bash your way up the rest of the route on hand eating pockets in beautiful, bone-white rock.  There might have been another mini-crux somewhere around 3/4 of the way up, but who cares?  POCKETS!!

Looks like an extension goes up and right from the chains on a hanging, rounded arete.

Slab start to vertical goodness on crimps and pockets.

Smaller holds at the bottom. Follow a curve to the right up amazing jugs. Perfect warm up for the harder climbs here.

This is a variation which starts on 10 Cow Woman and finishes on Sisterwife

Pockets and edges get you up to the first set of anchors and then tons of pockets up to the 2nd set. Really fun climb!!

Another shorty for this crag, at 75' you'll wonder what happened to the second half.  But what it lacks in length, it makes up for in a tantalizing technical crux.  Really a bit of a one-10d-move-wonder, the excellent bolting and the fact that it's not sustained at the grade make this route an excellent candidate for a climber just breaking into the grade.  Conquer the crux crimps, and you're rewarded with a featured seam above, fun to the finish.

Start up beautiful, blocky white rock coated with tufa drips.  Around the 3rd bolt, use a terrible right hand pinch and start moving up and left to some amazing sequences on incredible pockets.  The rock looks chossy, but it's incredible!  Pull onto easier ground and climb a strange blocky, staircase type corner that trends right.  The rock here is definitely a bit suspect.  Gain a crack/seam system and perform another crux move on some slopey side pulls and a deep right hand mono.  This takes you to 50 ft. of glory jug hauling on hand eating pockets!

As of November 2017, this route had a fixed double CAMP wire draw on the 4th or 5th bolt.  The Limestone Bible says that this route starts on "Bling" and moves right, but it now has its own, independent start.  You could certainly start on "Bling" immediately left and move right, but the start of this was great.

You know your perspective is a bit skewed when 75' starts feeling really short, but it's all relative at the Diamond.  Still worthwhile for quality rock and an inverted ledgy bit in the middle to figure through.

Pretty as a bride on her wedding day.  Follow the blue streak.  Sustained pocket pulling and small crimps.  You can get a slight rest out left in the concave type thing.  The bolting is a bit funky halfway up as the most natural climbing is to the left of the bolts, making for some funky clips.  I actually did a "rose" move on this route.  Sweet...

A great, pumpy and sustained route for the grade. This is the more direct but easier variation to Bling (13a) although it does have separate anchor. Located just to the left of Rub it Till it Shines. No stopper moves or defined crux but seemed like continuous 11 to 11+ climbing with no good rests other than an occasional decent hold to shake from. Probably my favorite route  did at the Diamond.

Fantastic variety of holds, movement, and rock features up this long and lovely line.  You'll be glad you did it.

Route is characterized by three distinct sections. The beginning is thin and somewhat sharp, a few pockets and slits, up and over a couple bulges.  You might find a hand jam, if you're into that kind of thing.  Next up is a section of bulletproof gray, all geometric angles that decorate both sides of a mini arete.  Play with body positioning and see what happens.  Finally, ease right for the last section of pocket-pulling. Just when you think it couldn't possibly keep going, it does.   Simply glorious.

Flawless rock quality indeed.  Scramble up a low angle slab to reach the high first bolt. Climb three bolts on big jugs to the first crux moving left. Two more bolts of thin moves bring you to another mini crux and a rest. A final red point crux consisting of 2 finger pockets and hard to find feet will deposit you on massive huecos.  Clip the chains and smile knowing sport climbing doesn't get much better than this.

4 stars for great rock quality and sustained movement.

Nice pockets with a bit of a slab thrown in about halfway.  No real crux, nice moderate climbing.

Tiptoe up a slab flake and let the techfest begin. Sustained balancy climbing with limited resting positions stays on you until the second to last bolt. Rest. Fire the rp crux and hold on to the chains. Wonderful climbing on decent rock.

Not the best line on the wall.   Lots of suspect looking rock to start and then as it gets steep, it also gets super sharp.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Diamond