crack climb is more or less in the center of the face. it goes straight up and is to the right of a left leaning crack.

Progressive Lizard

Lizard Skin (aka Blue Belly)

Poodle Lizard

Chicken Lizard

Lizard In Bondage (aka False Cilley Toprope)

Lizard Breath Arden (aka Lizard Robbins)

Goeb's Goes Gecko

Lizard Taylor

Off to See the Lizard (aka Komodo Dragon)

Left Lizard Crack

Alligator Lizard

Right Lizard Crack

One of the better and more mental routes on the wall to lead within reason. THe crux move is well protected but the rest is not. As well, the moves are unique and fun. The short length of this rotue keeps it from getting more stars.

On the SW face, find the left-most thin crack/seam before the chimney (3-4M further left) and climb in from the right of the bottom of it. Gain a decent stance and Protect before climbing through to its left side. Continue up the seam to the right hand edge of a horizontal seam/flake (poor pro here if you want it, maybe a so-so piece if you tinker for a while) and then up the lower angle face to the top.

This route is an interesting route, but it's short length and unintersting position merit only one star.  Still, if you are at this crag, it's worth a go. On the SW face, find a drastically right-leaning crack that passes to a bulge after 5M. Clim up the crack past a crux undercling, then up over the slight bulge to the jugs and edges above. The angle up top kicks back into a crack, or you can go a little further right to finish on the Alligator Lizard face. The crux move is a little awkward, but once that is passed, the climb is easy.

This route is at the far right side of the crag, where the rock quality begins to degrade.  It's a short, steep face climb of low quality.

I saw a lot of people tossing themselves at this climb multiple times over the course of an afternoon at Lizard Rock, and amusingly enough, all at different places on the route. The position of the crux will depend upon your climbing strengths and weaknesses.

On the SW face, find a obtuse, rounded corner with a flake just to the left of the bottom of it. This lies 3-4 meters left of the Left Lizard Crack and 1 meter right of Progressive Lizard.

Climb up onto the flake on the left and reach the crack system right. Continue up, eventually going right out of the very shallow corner onto a face, which soon becomes lower angle. Alternatively, we also have climbed up further, continuing in the crack a little longer to the top (same grade).  [Edit - This route is the same as the False Cilley Toprope (page 31, Bartlett guide). The boulder start is the crux, while starting on Progressive Lizard to the leftand cutting over makes this 5.10a.]

this route climbs a crack just to the right of an unbolted face. climb the crack until you reach a roof. the crack then becomes offwidth. this is the crux. it's possible to move right and climb an unprotected face.

A pleasant romp up large plate holds.  Start near the start of Poodle Lizard to extend the burn...

The large patina-ed holds give way to lower angle friction bumps at the top.  A low angle scramble leads to the breathtaking summit of the Lizard's Hangout.  Congratulate your bad self!

This route is not bad for it's venue, but like most of the routes at the Lizard's Hangout it's short length and unintersting position merit only one star. Futhermore, it climbs more like a boulder problem than a route with a boulder crux (10b, not 10d) a meter or two up, then easy climbing to the top. This route should not be rated 'R' as it is in the Vogel guide.

On the SW face, find two cracks that start within a meter of each other at the ground, but diverge right and left to finish perhaps 4M apart. The left option, which passes a flake at a bulge to reach lower angle, lower key climbing is the Left Lizard Crack.

This route ascends on good locks and side-pulls to the crux crimper then up - the rest of the route was moderate jams and edges, and much less interesting.  Maybe a good first 5.10d lead for some due to it's ease (felt like 10b) and pro from the ground + ease of stepping down to rest.

This is the second route from the right end of the crag.  It's a very short, steep face route.

THis route is very good for it's venue, but like most of the routes at the Lizards hangout, it's short length and unintersting position merit only one star.  Still, if you are at this crag, it's worth a go. On the SW face, find two cracks that start within a meter of eachother at the ground, but diverge right and left to finish perhaps 4M apart. The right most of these, which passes a bulge at each right-hand-jog in the crack, is the Right Lizard Crack.This route ascends on good locks and jams with a few face holds and is a good route to dial in moderate crack skills on. There did not seem to be a particular crux and the climb was generally well protected.

Description

Protection

Routes in Lizard's Hangout