Killer project and worth five stars on a three star scale, Starlight, fires smack-dab up the middle of the overhang on amazing features with a relentless demand on power. Edges, side steps, side pulls, and back steps all  gun for a Manta Ray flake in the middle of the overhang. It is at least 5.12b just getting here. Pull around the flake on the right and launch a relentless series of crimps on progressively steepening rock. Jugs await below the lip of the roof, and a good thing too, since here again the pro shifts to the camming units. Just imagine tipping

Ten-Digit Dialing

back 30 degrees and you get the idea. Actually, some of these holds are incut, and a couple of square corners provide some relief and keep the continuity only a couple of letter grades harder than

TDD

. But what a route. Lowering from the top feels like Rifle, with 40 + feet between you and the wall. Starlight is a dream project on great stone with good moves and excellent gear. I have a bottle of champagne sitting around for the day this goes down.

Starlight

Starry G (aka Beyond the Thunderdome?)

Unknown V3

Bee Positive

Point of Entry

The Expensive Route

Storm

Scorpion

Down the Rabbit Hole

W.A.S.P. (What About Some Pesticide?)

Stinger

The G Route

Pittsburgh Stubby

The Stormy G

Cheat Death

The Raven's Haven

Scorpion and an unamed route to its right use the same three starting bolts, diverging at the 4th bolt. Climbing begins a few feet right of Point of Entry and a bit left of center in the overhang. Pumpy, powerful, and equipped with big holds interspersed with crisp, diminishing crimps. Fight your way left past the 4th bolt to the lip above saving an extra ounce of juice to get in natural gear passing the lip.

Starry G is another link-up. Do all the hard climbing on

Starlight

, and try to recover on the jugs after the manta ray flake, then keep traversing right into the crux of

The G Route

. A few long slings on the

Starlight

portion help with rope drag towards the top.

Unknown V3 problem on the back of the Cheat Death Boulder. Start on the obvious horizontal rail, and trend up and rightward on patina edges in seams. This has great rock and movement but is a bit short for classic status. It is a sweet warm-up for the harder boulders and routes in the canyon.

Follow a few angling flake features up to a good stance below the obvious "plus" sign crack feature. Head up & slightly rightward to the next horizontal break; climb the beautiful gator skin panel to the anchors.

Better enjoy this, Point of Entry is the only easy way up the Wild Overhang Wall. A short way up Wasp Canyon the wall on the left side kicks out a huge overhang, and this is the Wild Overhang Wall.  On the left side of the overhang, low in the canyon, and off fine flat boulder is a bolt protected and right traversing jug haul. This straightens out and heads for the roof above on bolts. At the roof, pro switches to Friends and Camalots, or even some bigger stoppers. Haul over the roof on more jugs, with a big run out to the anchor. Excellent climbing on a steep wall that only gets steeper as you tackle the routes on the right.

Make reachy moves up the blank face to reach a left-facing dihedral.  Lieback up to a stance, then hand traverse right out the large roof to a hanging prow.  Continue up and right through another roof to the Rabbit Hole anchors.

Just right of

Starlight

is Storm.  Similar pump factor. More crimping with multiple cruxes.  Joins Starlight for the top section.

To the right of

The Expensive Route

is a blank orange and green wall capped with a roof.  Climb a weakness at its right side past three bolts, pulling the roof (crux), then wandering up easier terrain to anchors 30 feet left of

WASP

.

This route is located on the steep wall on the left side of the Wasp Canyon.  Variations are all across this wall. None harder than 5.8 unless you are REALLY trying. Very high quality wall that accepts good gear. Great routes for the 5.7-5.8 leaders.

Stinger climbs the bulging back section of the Wasp Wall. Two bolts protect the opening moves on the steep section.  Climb on classic  Thunder gator skin. Exciting.

This is the obvious, overhanging dihedral at mouth of canyon. It joins

Point Of Entry

.

This is the rightmost bolted route on Starlight Buttress, and left of

RAVEN'S HAVEN

corner.  It is overhung and pumpy for the entirety.  The crux is midway up, moving past crimpers to a juggy ledge.  This is the most sustained route on the buttress and a must do.  It is a straightforward route with a little of everything, from crimpers to jugs, and an occasional long reach/dyno.

This essentially an alternate start to

The Expensive Route

. Clip the first bolt of

Down the Rabbit Hole

, and then pop left onto the roof-capped slab. Take care moving left to the bolt on the slab. While the feet are solid, you don't want to slip here. Next, make techy moves past the bolt to a pod in the roof. Then, pull up into to the corner and ride

The Expensive Route

to its finish.

Start on

Storm

, and finish on

The G Route

doing the cruxes of both routes.

This classic boulder problem climbs great rock out a steep overhanging on slightly incut crimps. Begin sitting with two large, undercling knobs. Work your way rightward and up through a variety of crimps to a challenging move to a good pinch. From here, continue on easier ground to the moderate topout.

A low start "Meet Your Maker", V9/10 (FA: Max Krimmer), has been done adding some steep moves on good holds. This is also a very worthy endeavor.

This route starts on the wall to the right of and an unnamed Glenn Schuler route on a small ledge.  Climb the blocky arete, with the Wild Overhang Wall and the chimney close to your left.  You can enter the chimney for an easy rest or to place gear, but both are available on the face.  After a roof, pull onto the

Starlight

Buttress to follow an obvious and exposed series of jugs left.  Use long runners on gear at and below the start of the traverse to avoid rope drag.  Continue left to a bolt and to meet up with the top of the adjacent route.  Climb to one more bolt, then the anchors.

This route offers a good warm up to

Starlight

and

Storm

.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Wasp Canyon